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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Several Updates

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Multiplying Forces caches at 13.5
May 20, 2005    
Hey there friends and family, this is Todd calling in from Windy Pass, reporting that Team Multiplying Forces has successfully made the carry up around the Corner to about 13.5 and we are headed back to camp right now. Everybody on the team is strong and the weather seems to be holding. If it holds one more day for us, which we are crossing our fingers that it will, we will move on up to 14 and then a storm can come in because we are ready for a rest day anyhow, so a storm would be a good excuse. We’re all healthy and happy and sending our love out to you, signing off for now.

Cheeseburgers in Paradise reach 14,200 foot Camp.
May 20, 2005    
Hey good morning cyberworld, this is Eric Murphy calling in for Team Cheeseburgers in Paradise on Denali. Well folks it is Friday, May 20 and we are greeting you from the beautiful comfort of 14,200 foot camp on Denali. Skies are clear, the weather is beautiful, and we just gave our bon voyage to Alp 2, who are currently on their way up to 17 Camp. We got in yesterday at about 5:00, got camp set up, had a great sleep and are currently in progress of having breakfast of French toast and sausage. So we’re living large up here, everyone is doing great and today we’re planning on doing our back carry to our cache, just around Windy Corner.

Tomorrow will be a rest day and Sunday we’re looking at carrying to 16.2, the top of the fixed lines and potentially moving to High Camp on Monday. So that’s our schedule as it stands, we’ll definitely be in touch. Hugh sends his mother Molly, Happy birthday wishes and Randy sends his son Peter happy birthday wishes and Eric sends his love to Christina and mom. So with great views of the Alaska Range, this is Eric Murphy, out.

Mystic Elvises push to High Camp
May 19, 2005    
This is Steve from the Mystic Elvises and today we had a rest day at 14,200 feet at camp and we walked out to the Edge of The World which looks down 7,000 feet to the North Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We took turns going to the edge on our ropes and just got lowered over the edge with a belay from Trevor which was very exciting. Then we just relaxed and got ready for our push up to 17,000 feet. Tomorrow we are planning on getting up pretty early and making the push, so we’ll give you a call in a couple of days and give you the update on our move up to high camp, where we have six day of food and fuel and we are looking at summiting in the next six days if the weather holds. So far the weather has been good and it is still clear out right now, the sun is still out and it’s 10:30pm. Have a good night.

Team Multiplying Forces picks up lower cache.
May 19, 2005    
Hi this is Winslow calling in for Team Multiplying Forces. We just hiked down from 11.2 to pick up our gear and food that we have left down here. It’s a beautiful day, a nice rainbow around the sun which is really pretty, but predictive of weather in about 48 hours, so we might get some snow up here, but it’s looking great right now. Everyone worked hard yesterday building a camp up at 11.2 and we enjoyed a great breakfast of French toast this morning and have been telling a lot of jokes and stories, having a great time. We will talk to you next time we hit cell reception which might be tomorrow if the weather holds for us, take care, bye.


Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.


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