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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Mixed Nuts caches at 14,000 feet.


Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team 7 caches at 10,200, name still a mystery.
May 31, 2005    
Hello this is Alpine Ascents Team #7 at the top of the Kahiltna Glacier at 10,200 feet. In spite of weather conditions not allowing us to fly the first day, putting us a day behind, we did a strong carry from 7,100 feet today, cached here at the top of the glacier. The team has decided on a name, suitable since the team is all-male, and the name is: (transmission fails) Until tomorrow, signing out.

Mixed Nuts caches at 14,000 feet.
May 31, 2005    
Happy Tuesday, this is Forrest McCarthy with Mixed Nuts. We are up on the 14,000 foot side of Windy Corner. We’ve been carrying today, Kind of warm but a lot of fresh snow, hard trail-breaking, it’s over knee deep all the way up here, everybody did a great job breaking trail getting up here. We’ve been fortunate that it has not been too windy here but it’s still kind of cool. Other than that everyone is doing really well and weather permitting we’re going to be moving up to Camp 14,200 feet tomorrow. We will be calling in tomorrow and letting you guys know how we’re doing. If we don’t call in tomorrow it’s because we’re stuck at 11 waiting for the weather to clear, but the forecast looks good, so we’re hoping to move up to Camp III tomorrow, talk to you all then, bye bye.

Cheeseburgers in Paradise return to Talkeetna Safely
May 31, 2005    
Hey good morning cyberworld, this is Eric Murphy reporting in for Team Cheeseburgers in Paradise. Well folks this will be our final cybercast for our trip, the third trip of the year on Denali, and I’m happy to report in from Talkeetna on Tuesday May 31st. We just had our first breakfast back in civilization at the Road House, the famous standard and we’re celebrating our trip and looking forward to getting back to lives and careers.

So just a recap for you. Sunday was our second summit attempt which was also unfortunately unsuccessful, we had one prior to that on Friday and both times we met unfortunately with high winds, too high to continue on with the danger of getting frostbite and other cold injuries. So we turned around and folks were feeling really good about the fact that we were up at high camp for six days and gave it our best shot. That’s just the mountain weather for you. So everyone made it back safely and we consider the trip a success. So Mark and I are going to have a week off and we are going to be back with Denali Team #8 beginning on June 8. Thanks to friends and family and everyone who is following our trip, we’ll see you next time, ciao.

Don't Panic retrieves cache and rests at 14.2
May 30, 2005    
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson giving you a call from 14,000 foot camp and this is Team Don’t Panic. Today is the 30th and we had a pretty mellow day today. We just went back down to the Windy Corner and picked up the rest of our supplies of food and fuel, brought them back up to our camp at 14.2. Today was sort of cloudy and cold and we pretty much did some skills, practicing fixed lines and running belays and we’re getting ready to go up the fixed lines tomorrow and drop some gear off at 16,200 foot cache. And get acclimatized. We’ll give you a call tomorrow and tell you how it went and the weather sounds like it is going to be breaking soon so we should be in good position for a summit push in the next week. Until then we will give you a call tomorrow, this is Eric signing off.

Multiplying Forces still waiting for good weather.
May 30, 2005    
Hey there this is Multiplying Forces calling in again from Camp 17.2. Today we did not go to the summit as planned, we woke up to clear skies, but high winds. Way too high winds peed to go for the summit, there were a couple of groups that did try and they said at Denali Pass they were being blown off their feet, so we are happy that we didn’t try. We took another rest day and hopefully it will just make us stronger for tomorrow if the weather cooperates with us. We have tomorrow, and Wednesday. Wednesday would be our final day and we hope we get a weather window before then. We’ll keep you informed and talk to you later, bye.

Mixed Nuts retrieves cache at 9,800 feet
May 30, 2005    
Hello cyberworld, family and friends, this is Duane from the Mixed Nuts. Today is Monday, yesterday on Sunday we successfully made it up to Camp II at 11,200 feet and today we are back down at our cache at Kahiltna Pass at 9,800 feet, the windy Kahiltna Pass, to pick up our cache which we left a couple of days ago and we’re going to carry it on up to 11.2. Tomorrow the plan is to cache gear, fuel and food up at 14,000 feet at Camp III and come back down and spend another night at 11.2. And the following day, our plan, if the weather hold for us, we’ll take us all the way up to 14 and move camp and acclimatize there for a couple of days. The next cybercast will be from 14 Camp. Everybody is doing well, yesterday we pushed quite efficiently up to 11.2 and were greeted by patches of sunshine and blowing snow and it blew snow all night long and it’s a beautiful day today although a little breezy but not too bad. But hope all is well

Don't Panic arrives at 14.2 Camp
May 29, 2005    
Hello, this is Ben Billings calling in with an update on Alpine Ascent 5, Team Don’t Panic. Today is Sunday the 29th, we’ve been on the mountain for a week now, we are happily up at 14 camp where we just arrived today. We spent three nights at 11 Camp, doing some carries up to the Windy Corner. We had a good time down at 11 Camp, got to know some of the other teams that we will be paralleling with on the mountain and got to spend a little time getting to know everyone. We moved up to 14 Camp today, came around Windy Corner and it was not so windy, just a little bit of snow and some low visibility. So far everything has been great, the temperatures have been cold, but enjoyable. Everyone is doing well.

Tom, John, Steve, Glenn, Mick, and Don all say hello to family and friends and I do have a short message from Steve, who sends love and says hi to Maggs, Emily and Maddie, he really misses you and he is working on his ginger beard. I know that’s not fair that Steve is getting the only personal message, but we’ll maybe keep it to one personal message in every cybercast. So hello to friends and family and to everyone out there, thinking of you and look forward to talking to you again soon. We’ll be here at 14 Camp for the next four nights and then moving hopefully up the mountain to 17 Camp later this week. We’ll keep you posted. For now this is Team Don’t Panic signing off, talk to you all soon.

Mixed Nuts climbs to 11.2 Camp
May 29, 2005    
Hey everybody this is Forrest McCarthy with Alp 6, the Mixed Nuts calling in from about 9,000 feet on the Kahiltnaa Glacier. We are on our way up to Camp II at 11,200 feet, we just spent a couple of nights at the base of Ski Hill at about 7.8 We got a cache of food and fuel put up at Kahiltna Pass and we’re moving on up. Nice to be moving with some lighter packs today, working hard, shuttling food and fuel. Currently the weather is a bit foggy, you can’t see much, it’s a little like sitting inside the middle of a ping pong ball. But rumor has it that Camp II is above the cloud layer and we are looking forward to getting up there and breaking out. That’s it, Team Mixed Nuts will talk to you later.

Multiplying Forces reaches 17,200 feet.
May 29, 2005    
Hello, this is Team Multiplying Forces calling in from Camp 17.2. We didn’t make a report last night because we had our hands full. We left Camp 14.2 under clear blue skies, and so did the rest of the camp, so the fixed lines were very crowded and slow going. Then about half way up the fixed lines, some weather came in, not too bad though, there was some wind, we rolled into 17.2 here at about 7:30 at night and w were happy that Alpine Ascents group III pitched in and helped us build a camp and made a little hot soup for us, so that made our night here a little easier. It was still trying for everybody, everyone had a really hard time, but we made it and everyone is feeling good this morning, no problems and it’s a fairly nice day and we hope to rest today, maybe go for the summit tomorrow. We’ll keep you informed of our plans and report in later.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

 

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