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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Team Extreme


Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team Censored Enlightenment reaches High Camp
June 21, 2005    
Hi folks this is Eric Murphy calling in for Team Censored Enlightenment. Well it’s Tuesday evening and we finally made it to high camp, 17,200 feet and today was a stellar day, lots of sunshine, very little wind and we are hoping that the weather will hold for a couple of days, we’re looking at trying to get a summit bid in either tomorrow or the next day. John wants to say hi to family, friends, co-workers, all those who contributed and he also wants to give his love to Sylvia. Sam says hello to everyone back home, lots of love and hugs and Eric send love and hugs to his mom and Christine. So stay tuned for more adventures from Team Censored Enlightenment as we try to wrap this one up and get ourselves a nice summit day. This is Murphy, out.

Team Extreme pulls into Camp III June 21, 2005    
Hey there cybernauts this is Vern Tejas with Team Extreme, calling you from 14,143 feet above sea level, approximately. We just pulled in and Brennan is fixing up a nice hot meal for us, we’re sitting around the camp fire, feet up and really enjoying the thin air here. So we’ve made a carry up from 11,000 so basically a 3,000 foot gain today. Big jump but because we have been paying attention to our acclimatization schedule, most people are feeling pretty darn good for the first evening at this altitude. Team members are in good spirits and they want you all to know that they are thinking of you. So ciao for now from Camp III high on the flanks of Denaliiii!

Team Dynamite - Final Dispatch June 21, 2005    
Hi everyone, this is Team Dynamite writing to you from Fireweed Station on Tuesday, June 21, after a well-deserved and delicious dinner at one of Talkeetna's favorite bed and breakfasts. After a relaxing dinner at 7,800 foot camp last night, we woke up at 4 a.m. and reached the airstrip just as the planes were beginning to fly around 8 a.m. There weren't too many climbers ahead of us and we all flew off the glacier by 3 p.m. So we cleaned ourselves up and took showers and met for dinner. Tonight is the summer solstice, an occasion for a big party in Talkeetna. So we're going to sample the local culture tonight and head our separate ways in the morning. Our last Napoleon Dynamite quote is, "Last week Japanese scientists ex-placed...placed explosive detonators at the bottom of Lake Lochness to blow Nessie out of the water. Sir Cord Godfried of the Nessie Alliance summoned the help of Scotland's local wizards to cast a protective spell over the lake and its local residents. And all those who seek for the peaceful existence of our underwater ally." Oh, and by the way, the cat is coming home. Take care and keep on climbing. Team Dynamite.

Team Censored Enlightenment Correction June 21, 2005: Correction to Censored Enlightenment June 19th cybercast. Sam Plati is with the expedition along with climber John Sloan and guide Eric Murphy. Expedition members that have returned are guide Mark Fisher and climbers Chad, Jessica, Mariah, and Nate.

Team #10 Team Extreme June 21, 2005: Hello there cybernauts this is team X, Team Extreme. We are here at Windy Corner and it’s not so windy. We have just come up from 11,000ft and we are making a cache here, we had a storm day yesterday that pinned us down at 11,000. Now we are just moving up and around the corner with our gear. Tomorrow we are planning to move all the way to 14. Everyone is in good health and good spirits and are feeling fine. They all want to say hello. So the whole team says hello to their loved ones out there and we are talking to you from 13,514.3ft about sea level. I can see Hunter just sticking out of the clouds right now, the storm that had us pinned is starting to blow away. So we are looking at some high cirrus, blue skies, and I’m in the sun right now. So thank you for tuning in and stay tuned for further adventures of Team Extreme. Ciao for now.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

 

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A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 

 

 

 

 




 

 

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