American Autumn Shishapangma Expedition 2005

Sunset on Shishapangma from Base Camp

Final Planning

Our team climb of Mount Rainier's Liberty Ridge over July 4 weekend went very well.  We summited without problem, got to know one another, and even found we enjoyed each other's company (good thing!).  Of course we were all on our best behavior...

Cho Oyo is a go!  David Christopher arranged transportation from Shishapangma base camp to Cho Oyo, and we'll use only Dorje, the cook to support us at base camp.  Pratap, the sirdar, will travel to Kathmandu with Eric who's sightseeing and not climbing Cho Oyo.  We other three plan on a rapid ascent, moving to a higher a camp each day.  We've added another ten days to the schedule to attempt a second 8000m peak!

The last few weeks has been about as hectic as could be anticipated, with the biggest headache that two of our four visas were denied by the Chinese government. Val and Eric used the Chicago consulate, who issued their visas without problem.

Going to Tibet requires extra permission, which we have, but will only receive the entry permits once we land in China.  We found out the standard method of getting to Tibet is to leave it completely off the visa application - that it's easy to get the permit from the tour operator once inside China, but virtually impossible to get a visa clear to Tibet.  So Dave's and Monty's visas were denied, not only for lack of permission but Dave's was also denied because the Chinese Embassy in Washington required originals, not faxes.

Using friends and new paperwork sent from Beijing, we've been told just yesterday that our visas WILL be issued - with one week until departure! The other thing the Chinese did at the last minute is increase the amount of money they require by almost $5000 (grrr...).  David

Christopher negotiated that down to $3200, but they refuse to answer what (if anything) the extra charges are for.

We've broken out planning responsibilities as follows:

Gear - Dave

Food - Valerie

Technology - Eric

Finance - Monty

Each has been planning their area and updating each other at weekly conference calls.

It's one week to go, and everything looks like it's in order.  Now just

have to get packed!

The last area that cannot be passed over without mention is David

Christopher's help in setting up all the logistics.  David's a retired

travel agent with expertise in this area of the world, and he did all

our logistics for Ama Dablam last year.  He's hired our sirdar and cook, made all our travel arrangements, obtained all the in-country gear, obtained the climbing permits for both mountains, negotiated with the Chinese Mountaineering Association - the list just goes on and on!  With the compressed timeline, changes, and geographically dispersed group, this trip has been the most difficult he's ever arranged, yet he continues with endless patience.  He's done it all as a gratis service for the Mazamas, the Portland mountaineering club that Monty, the climb leader, belongs to. David, we're not exaggerating when we say we couldn't do it without you!

--Monty

Updates

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