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  Expedice HI-TEC V-LITE Nanga Parbat - K2 2005: Moving up!


Copyrightę Billy Pierson: Murph goes to K2: The best K2 video on the planet: VHS or DVD

Update 6/13/2005: They were planning on going up on the 11th.

June 3rd, Kinsshofer's rocks: Yesterday we made a vertical distance from 4.200 to 5.000 m, today we want to add next 1.000 m to CII (Camp II). It means to break through Kinshoffer's rocks that are situated right above the camp.

We started out at 6 am and our speed on the frozen snow was 30 steps and a brake. We started to sink into the snow. We were very exhausted in a moment and have to use all doping we have with us - energy gels, bars and sweats and iont drinks. It helped us to master a big crisis. But we had nothing to drink. The way to the Camp II lasted to 8 pm and we were totally dehydrated. The night was coming very quickly, I had to dig a place for the tent, "Miska" was cooking. Then we build Camp II. We crawled into the sleeping bags and fall asleep with a chill. Radek

June 2nd: 2:50 am, Base Camp: We woke up and left the Base Camp at 5 am. There is no another expedition so we had to go alone. It was a wonderful feeling; we were wading through the snow to the mountain where haven't been anybody this year yet. We connected each other by a rope, breakage can be anywhere. At 7 am we stood at a "safe" place, were drinking and taking photos.

But suddenly at 7.500m over our heads we saw an avalanche. I was taking the photos of it and was getting bigger and bigger. We realised that it comes to us at the last moment. There was no time to run away and the avalanche hit us. I tried to put my gloves on and zip my jacket. A wind pressure wave hit us to our shoulders. We lied down, cut ice axes and covered our heads. The wind was so strong that it took our breath away and a powder snow was everywhere. I tried to make a pocket for breathing. After a never-eding time the wind became weaker. I tried to find "Miska". He lied 10m below me and looked like a snowman. He tried to make a forced smile. It was a great welcome from Nanga Parbat.

When we groomed ourselves we started out. There were many breakage, but we didn't know their positions. An hour later - next avalanche. But we were sitting at the side of a mountain gradient and could relish scenery from a safe place.

At 5.000m we found a place for the tent. After an hour of digging we built the tent. "Miska" complained that he hit himself to the leg as he had run away and the leg hurt. The boot is full of blood and he had two holes in his calf from the ice axe. We have brand new ice axes that are very sharp. In my opinion it is a luck for "Miska", it is a cut wound and not lacerated. I had to treat him and just hope that an infection won't appear. We have nothing to cure it.

There are not many days in our lives. We fell asleep at 9 pm as we have to wake up at 4 am. Radek

30.5.05 - 8:00 am: We reached the base camp yesterday (29.5.) - 4200m. It would have been placed on a flower meadow, but we waded through snowdrifts. We don't know how the surroundings looks like, we can't even see Nanga Parbat. A fog is all around and the snow is still falling. We will not be able to get off to the mountain wall in the next days.

30.5.05 - 6:00 pm: The power runs dry in the morning... We built my and Miska's tents, started a solar panels, unpacked our inventory and sewed on logos. HI-TEC as a general sponsor has exclusive places on the clothing and has the best equipment for the travel to BC. We used the shoes with V-Lite technology for the travel to BC and will use them at K2, too.
Now the plans - We can not even think about a climbing in the next days. Nanga Parbat is very dangerous - the name of it in fact means Naked Mountain and on the posters through the Pakistan is marked as a "Mountain Killer". We intend to build the Camp I at 6000m above Kizhofer rocks. The Camp II should stand at 7000m. I can't consider when we will accomplish this at this conditions.
We are OK excepting my diarrhea. I try to heal it with black coal, Reask and spirits. Radek

Updates

 

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