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  SummitClimb Mt. Everest 2005 Nepal


American Dan Mazur will lead a veteran group of climbers to Everest in Spring 2005. His May 2004 expedition (Tibet side) placed 9 members and 16 sherpas on the summit in total safety.

From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.

Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)

The route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953

Leader: Daniel Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks". Our last expedition placed 9 members and 14 sherpas on the summit.


Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma).A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur). 

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.  During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world.


Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  



Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).

Through the following weeks, we  will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the world's most classic mountain.  Welcome to our team!


Looking up at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step  (DL Mazur) . 

The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others  (DL Mazur) .


1. 4 April, 2004 Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. 5 April In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. 6 April Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. 7 April Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. 8 April Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. 9 April Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. 10 April Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. 11 April Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. 12 April Rest in Lobuche.
10. 13 April Walk to basecamp (5300m).
11. 14 April Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
12. 15 April Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
13. 16 April Rest in basecamp.
14. 17 April Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15. 18 April Rest in basecamp.
16. 19 April Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
17. 20 April Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return  to camp 1, sleep there.
18. 21 April Return to basecamp.
19. 22 April Rest in basecamp.
20. 23 April Rest in basecamp.
21. 24 April Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
22. 25 April Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
23. 26 April Rest in camp 2.
24. 27 April Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
25. 28 April Return to basecamp.
26. 29 April Rest in basecamp.
27. 30 April Rest in basecamp.
28. 1 May Rest in basecamp.
29. 2 May Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
30. 3 May Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
31. 4 May Rest in camp 2.
32. 5 May Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
33. 6 May Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
34. 7 May Return to basecamp.
35. 8 May Rest in basecamp.
36. 9 May Rest in basecamp.
37. 10 May Rest in basecamp.
38. 11 May Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
39. 12 May Rest in camp 2.
40. 13 May Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
41. 14 May Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
42. 15 May Attempt summit. Return to camp 4.
43. 16 May Return to camp 2, sleep there.
44. 17 May Return to basecamp.
45. 18 May Rest in basecamp.
46. 19 May Rest in basecamp.
47. 20 May Rest in basecamp.
48. 21 May Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
49. 22 May Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
50. 23 May Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
51. 24 May Attempt summit.
52. 25 May Attempt summit.
53. 26 May Return to camp 2.
54. 27 May Pack up camp 2.
55. 28 May Return to basecamp.
56. 29 May Pack up basecamp.
57. 30 May Pack up basecamp.
58. 31 May Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
59. 1 June Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
60. 2 June Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
61. 3 June Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
62. 4 June Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
63. 5 June Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
64. 6 June Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!





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