Aman (ATP's Managing Director) has the privilege
of being the first Pakistani to climb K2
(the second highest peak in the world) besides
having almost 30 years of solo experience in the
field of tourism. In
recognition of his devoted services for
promotion of Mountaineering and Trekking, he was
awarded "Pride of Performance" by the
President of Pakistan apart from a number of
awards from the International community. Recently
he has been awarded a memorable award namely
"UND DEI CENTO" (one in hundred) in a
big festival held in Milan Italy.
is his Q&A !
Dear Mr. Ashraf Aman, What areas will be open
for trekking/mountaineering next season do you
Ashraf Aman: There are no change of rules and
regulations. Previously open areas are still open and
all restricted areas still need permits.
I would like to explore the HinduKush/Tirich Mir area,
is it a safe there? Thanks a lot for all arrangements
for my Baltoro-Gondogoro La circuit trek summer 2000,
and say hello to all your staff (Naik Nam Karim et al.
) from me. Best regards Olle Paulson, Sweden
Ashraf Aman: Dear Olle, we are pleased to know that
you are interested Hindu Kush Area. Please note that
Hindu Kush and Chitral area is safe for all kind of
tourist traffic. You can freely visit though out the
region without any security risk. Best regards from my
staff too - Ashraf
I would like to thank for your support of the United
States. You and yours are in our prayers. On Climbing,
have you ever attempt Mt. Everest if not would you
Ashraf Aman: I have been to Base camp of Mount Everest
Tibet side and Nepal side, every mountaineer want to
climb Highest Peak, but need money to climb, Everest
is very expensive comparatively to K-2. Now I am too
old to climb Everest and I have not been practicing
for last many years. I think I cannot climb Everest
now, it's a DREAM PEAK.
Can you compare climbing K2 when you reached the
Summit in 1977 to today's climbing of K2.
Ashraf Aman: The days in 1977, we didn't have plastic
boots, we had only leather shoes and heavy high
altitude cloth, now climbing is very easy due to
modern equipment and communication helicopter
facilities. I had frost bite. There was no helicopter
to rescue. I had to walk out up to Dasso. Every day my
doctor had to Bandage my toes, I was walking by help
of Ski Poles.
Can you tell us about some of your K2 expeditions you
or your company have been involved with and the people
you have met.
Ashraf Aman: Below is short list of the successful
climbers on K-2 with whom my company and myself have
been involved. The detailed list with un-successful
expeditions is too long.
N Name Nationality
01 C. Buhler American
02 Sebastian de la Cruz Argentinean
03 Kurt Diemberger Austrian
04 Andrew Lock Australian
05 Juanito Oiarzabal Basque
06 Alberto Inurrategui Basque
07 Felix Inurrategui Basque
08 Enrique de Pablo Basque
09 Jose Carlos Tamayo Basque
10 Juanjo San Sebastian Basque
11 Atxo Apellaniz Basque
12 Alan Hinkes British
13 Waldemar Niclevicz Brazil
14 Juan Tomas Gutierrez Catalan
15 Cristian Garcia-Huidabro Chilean
16 Misael Alvial Chilean
17 Michael Purcell Chilean
18 Waldo Farias Chilean
19 Jean Christophe Lafaille French
20 Peter Mezger German
21 Salvatore Panzeri Italian
22 Giulio Maggioni Italian
23 Marco Bianchi Italian
24 Christian Kuntner Italian
25 Hans Kammerlander Italian
26 Marco Commandano Italian
27 Shoji Nakamura Japanese
28 Tsuneoh Shigehiro Japanese
29 Takeyoshi Takatsuka Japanese
30 Mitsuo Hiroshima Japanese
31 Masahide Onodera Japanese
32 Hiro Shima Japanese
33 Hideo Yamamoto Japanese
34 Anatoli Boukreev Kazakhi
35 Krzysztof Wielicki Polish
39 Lorenzo Ortiz Spanish
40 Javier Olivar Spanish
42 Pepe Garces Spanish
42 Sergei Penzov Russian
43 Igor Benkin Russian
44 Terzyul Vladislav Ukrainian
45 Mstislav Gorbenko Ukrainian
I see you are listed as the ninth person to Summit K2.
Since it is old news now, can you tell us what was the
order of the summiteers on that
expedition including yourself?
Ashraf Aman: It was Joint Expedition of
Pakistan/Japan. Total There were 35 climber from Japan
and 5 from Pakistan
japans Climbers succeeded in first attempt
2.Second attempt one Pakistani three Japanese with no
3.Three japans and myself with success
As I understand it, few Pakistani Climbers are allowed
to Summit K2, most are used as porters, unlike Everest
where Sherpa climbers do the work but also are
normally allowed to attempt the Summit. Is this true?
Ashraf Aman: This is not true, Pakistani high porters
are also allowed to climb the K-2. But as compare to
Sherpas, Pakistani high porters are not skilled
enough. They are not trained properly. Whatever they
do, they do it by their own and by previous
experience. There are total four Pakistani climbers
who have summitted K-2 and two of us are high altitude
porters. I was a member of Pak-Japan K-2 expedition.
As we compare K-2 with Everest we hardly have 5 to 8
expeditions every year and few of them take high
altitude porters with them. This is also a reason of
being a small number of local K-2 climbers. While on
the other eight thousand peaks in Pakistan there are
many good climbers who are ready to climb. So far
there has not been a Pakistani expedition organized to
What do you see as the future of climbing K2? Meaning
do you see guided expeditions, more assistance given
to individuals, or about the same as now?
Ashraf Aman: Now K-2 is very easy [Easy is relative to
how good you are.] with modern equipment, only need
good weather and of course experience, if some
expeditions Sponsor they can afford guided expedition.
It is an honor to speak with you. I was wondering if
you could tell us more about the efforts to rescue
Eric Escoffier and if his body was ever found.
Ashraf Aman: For me it was one of the saddest news,
because I knew Eric, he was not only my client but
also a good friend above all he was a very nice and
kindhearted human being. I was shocked when I heard
the news of his disappearance. I have been searching
for him in snow and I did heli search as well, even I
sent my guides to different parts. Still I ask my high
porters to take a look for him on the mountain and all
comes with no positive response. We are still
thinking of him. He was a very good climber, but they
risk their lives and that's what mountaineers make
unique in the sports. I think his body is somewhere
under heavy avalanches.
his soul rest in peace.
more on Mr. Ashraf Aman see here.
questions for Mr. Ashraf Aman ? submit to email@example.com