Update 5/02/2005: Hey
Guys, An update from Camp 2. Yes camp 2! I have carried all the comms
equipment up with me and it will come as high as camp 3. Here is the latest
update from my view of the world (and believe me it is a good one at the
moment). Enjoy Rex
Monday 2 May 2005: Today is a special update, I have personally managed to lug
my laptop up two camp 2. Caroline (my sister) arrived at base camp yesterday
which was exciting, she brought with her a USB chip so I was able to back up
some of my photos and most importantly my book. I am sure that right now my "toughbook"
is the highest computer in the world. So this morning, I came up from Base
camp. I am now at camp 2. I will spend a rest day tomorrow here then push as
high as I can on the Lhoste face the next day. The goal is to touch the yellow
band (a band of rock that sits about 7500m) If I can do that I will be more
than ready to try for the summit. I chose to put one more rotation in because,
the jet stream looked like it was moving back towards Everest and our Sherpa
support had been delayed by two days. So my strategy consists of doing a 4 day
rotation, two days up, rest day on the 3rd then on the 4th day go as high as I
can get (I will set a turn around time for 12.00pm). On the 5th day I will go
back to base camp for 5 days of rest either down the valley or at BC. After
those five days I will position myself for a 15th of May summit, weather
depending of course.
Sadly we had another team
member go home yesterday, Larry. Larry was the expedition joker, he kept
everyone laughing but was having trouble with the sheer size of the hill. He
was a non-guided climber and very much a respected member of our team. We will
miss him but as I said before climbing Mt Everest is not for everyone. One
plus side of having two members pull out of the expedition is the fact that we
now have another eight oxygen bottles. So rumour has it we may be able to
start climbing on oxygen from camp 2, on our summit bid! If this is the case
it will greatly conserve our energy for the push from camp 3 to camp 4 and the
camp 4 to the summit and back.
I definitely know this is
going to be the last rotation now. Partly because I have been through the
icefall so many times. I have certainly had my fair share of the suicide
popcorn bowl! It is only a matter of time. I did smash my own and team record
again getting from base to the top of the icefall in 2 hrs and 40 minutes!
That's sherpa time! I am now also feeling good and can sleep at camp 2 which
is a good sign. I am ready now, and will be super ready after this rotation. I
have never been in the same mindset, it's weird because it is so positive yet,
I know the enormity of the task that lies ahead.
Those 2 or 3 days where we
are pushing for the summit above camps 2 and 3 will be the hardest of my life,
no doubt. But I strongly believe I can do this and it feels right. Like
somehow I am connecting with the mountain, I am not battling her; while it is
a constant test, and constantly hard, overall I feel ready and prepared to
rise to her summit for a short period. May the weather be on our side.
I will write from camp 3 on
the 4th. (You may need to excuse the grammar and spelling; I can hardly
breathe at 3 let alone type!) It will be a surreal experience! Cheers Rexy.
Update: Hi Everyone, I am now resting but
have decided to go on one last rotation to make triple sure my body is ready
to rise to Mt Everest's height of 8848m for a short period of time. Here is
the latest from Base Camp.
Saturday 30th April 2005
Ok I want to thank the girls from CCI pope for their good luck message. As
well as Nina, thanks so much you guys. It really makes my day to read such
cool messages and they are going to take me to the top of the world.
This morning it is snowing in Base Camp, so I have decided to get all my
oxygen gear sorted out for the summit bid. Fitting the regulator (oxygen mask)
to your face and making sure your goggles can fit around it without fogging up
is of great importance. Both choices of regulators did not fit properly around
my face, but I managed to modify my Addidas "Yodi" goggles by sticking a bit
of foam to the inside edge enabling my goggle to mesh perfectly with one of
the British oxygen masks. They are top of the line goggles, with lenses called
the "space lens". They were originally designed by NASA and they are the same
lenses used by astronaughts. Well I guess I am a bit like a space man! It
certainly feels like it with my down suit, goggles and oxygen mask.
I now nearly feel ready for the summit. I am still a tiny bit apprehensive and
was see-sawing as to wither to go and complete yet another rotation. This
morning the answer was given to me on a platter. The Sherpa's have been
hauling gear to the South Col (camp 4) and due to bad weather they have been
delayed for 2 days and are coming back down to base camp. This gives me a
window of opportunity, to complete a fourth rotation. This will ensure my body
is as ready as it will ever be to try for the summit. On this expedition I do
not want to have any maybes, I want everything running perfectly, smoothly
like a well oiled machine.
So far I have done everything right in
preparation for the summit bid. I think one more rotation will make me both
physically and mentally ready for what lies ahead. This morning I told Mark
Tucker (our leader), he said it is a good idea, and also gave me a great
compliment. He said that I was really using my head, everything I am doing has
been good and that if I keep it up he reckons, Rex is going to be standing on
the top. I was very pleased with this compliment. It reassured me I was on the
So on Monday I am off, up through the icefall
again to camp two. I will then take a rest day there. The next day I will set
a turn around time and go as high as I can up the Lhotse face (weather and jet
stream depending). I will then descend back to camp 2 and rest that night
before descending to base camp the next day. Four days in total. When I reach
base I will rest for a day then head down the valley to Pheriche (4200m) for 2
or 3 days. I'll come back up and go for the summit with the first window or
summit wave this season. This strategy potentially gives me two attempts. If
we don't make it up first go, we may be able to get another shot at the summit
in late May.
We all have our life journeys and I strongly believe we learn things from
everything we do. I am living my life journey now and while sometimes I
question it, I know what I am doing is right for me. I am a dream chaser, and
always will be doing crazy far out things. Whether that be in my climbing life
or my career. I don't want to follow, I want to lead. In my mind there are no
limits to what we can do and love in life. Life is a gift, we should all use
Rexy from Everest
Update Rex Pemberton is going to Everest Spring 2005! Stay tuned for more!
Twenty-year-old Australian Rex Pemberton has a dream. Already an
experienced Alpine climber, Rex has set his sights on Mt Everest and hopes to
become the youngest Australian to stand atop the world's tallest mountain by
summiting in 2005.
By the age of 10 Rex wanted to climb every hill and mountain he could find,
by 16 Rex was on an expedition to Bolivia and Peru where he climbed
6,025-meter Mt. Huclca Huclca. In addition he has already climbed on six of
the seven continents including famous ascents of Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring in
New Zealand. He's stood atop Mt. Blanc, the Matterhorn and 14 other
4,000-meter peaks in the European Alps.
If things go according to plan and corporate funding falls into place Rex
will lead an expedition to Nepal in the spring of next year. It's not a cheap
venture, as any Everest veteran will tell you. Rex, who runs his own
development company and works with corporate trainers Peak Times, is looking
to raise at least $65,000AU for his expedition. It's a venture that Rex
believes will pay big dividends for the Australian corporation that funds his
expedition. He expects a lot of interest and publicity during his attempt at
the Australian record for youngest Everest summiter.
As he works toward completing his dream Rex continues train and maintains a
rigorous schedule of running, gym workouts and stair climbing to keep in top
shape for the challenge ahead.
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