Seven Summit from the
Super Sherpa Everest
2007 Expedition at 8:44 A.M.
Mr. Apa Sherpa ( 47 yrs),
Thame-7, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (40
yrs), Juving-1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Passang Geljen Sherpa (21
yrs), Juving-1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Arita Sherpa (47 yrs),
Namche-7, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Ang Passang Sherpa (39
yrs), Namche-7, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Pemba Rinjee Sherpa (36
yrs), Juving-1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mr. Mingma Tsering Sherpa (25
yrs), Juving-1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Two Nepali world record
holders join to climb this Spring for a combined 30 Everest summits
Apa Sherpa, the man who has
stood on the top of the world a record 16 times and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, who
has summitted Mt. Everest in the record time of 10 hours, 56 minutes, and 46
seconds have announced that they are joining together to make a summit attempt
this Spring. The summit team will be comprised of the two record holders
along with 4 other Nepali support members. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa has summited 11
times in addition to his world record setting ascent. This would be his 13th
The climb is designed to
highlight the role of the Sherpas and the Nepali people since the historic
summit of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953. Other points
to be highlighted are:
· Guides and porters,
who do the lion’s share of the work, are rarely publicized or appreciated.
Their pay ranges from $300 to $3000 depending upon their skills. Non Nepali
guides and team leaders pay can range from $15,000 to over $100,000.
· The athletic prowess
of the guides and porters enables them to carry nearly their own body weight
over 8 times from base camp to the summit. This is in contrast to the
“guided” climbers requiring the carrying of their oxygen, tents, food,
sleeping bags and fuel by the Nepalis.
· Apa and Lhakpa do
not require the usual acclimatization period for non Nepali climbers. The
usual acclimatization period is 6 weeks.
· Both Apa and Lhakpa
are capable of a straight ascent from Base Camp to the summit of Mt. Everest.
· Lhakpa’s record of
10 hours, 56 minutes, and 46 seconds reveals an incredible ascent of over
10,000 feet at a rate of over 1000 feet per hour beginning at an elevation of
18,000 feet and topping out at Mt. Everest’s peak of 29,053 feet. For the
usual climber this would induce massive brain swelling and result in rapid
death from High Altitude Cerebral Edema.
· Guides and porters
are forced to cross the Ice Fall (the most dangerous zone on Mt. Everest) 20
times or more in order to carry all of the gear required by their group.
Assisted members limit their time in the Ice Fall to 4 to 6 crossings.
· Guides regularly
risk and even lose their lives saving members who are in distress. This is
rarely reported. In the case of a Nepali guide’s death the compensation paid
to the next of kin is barely enough to pay for the funeral costs.
Other members of the Super
Sherpa team are Jerry Mika and Roger Kehr, long time friends of the two
Sherpas. Jerry and Apa are partners in an outdoor clothing company in Salt
Lake City. Kehr and his wife have been involved with Apa in a medical
training program for Sherpas in the Khumbu. Lhakpa’s involvement with
Snowbird Expeditions has led to job opportunities in New Jersey and now in
Mika and Kehr will support
the expedition from Base Camp. The four have formed their own company for the
purpose of bringing world enlightenment about, and monetary benefit to, the
Nepali people. In conjunction with this expedition a book and documentary are
The proceeds from these
ventures and the future speaking fees of Apa and Lhakpa will ensure their
ability to not only feed their families and to provide for their education but
to also enrich the Nepali people through educational and other vital
programs. At least 25% of the net proceeds will be donated to Nepali schools,
hospitals, and other deserving entities.
Both Apa and Lhakpa have a
long record of “giving back” to their communities.
Everest from the South Side
Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350
This is a
picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest. Base camp is located
at 17,500 feet. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the
mountain. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the
expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. Many organizations
offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically
challenging (though you must be very fit).
camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to
the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and
forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall. This training and
recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often
being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to
train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.
is in constant motion. It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than
houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall
at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and
listen to continuous ice creaking below. This often acts as a testing ground
to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing. The
Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.
Camp I -
Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.
Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the
climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.
between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach
Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support
at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to
stay in contact.
Camp II -
climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a
27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny
icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip
could mean a climber's life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives
through such mishaps.
Camp III -
23,700 feet (7200 meters)
To reach Camp
III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice
demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many
Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to
stay on the Lhotse Face.
Camp IV -
26,300 feet (8000 meters)
As you’re leaving C4…it’s a
little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are
typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along
with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad,
and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately
it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually
tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the
right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of
wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of
the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase
there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can
create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see
over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to
leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when
it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are
going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of
a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some
lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid.
At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind
has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to
the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.
which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first
overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.
Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude
that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body
slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone." The
longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high
altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death
will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude
and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will
travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.
Camp IV is
located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It
is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also
a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts
(both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here
with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.
From Camp IV,
climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at
28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir.
Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first
people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed
ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.
Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced
climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically
challenging aspect of the climb.
29,028 feet (8848 meters)
climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the
summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not
the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak
on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than
one third the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly
from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.
Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their
composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as
possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from
achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great
accomplishment at that moment.
readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the
climb to the summit.
Pictures from Enrique
Guallart-Furio web site http://ww2.encis.es/avent/
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