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 Marty Schmidt Everest 2008 : MSIG signing in from Dingboche

MSIG signing in from Dingboche.  

All is well with our team, acclimatizing, getting use to the thinner air, working through the beginnings of an expedition and being surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Right in front of us now is Ama Dablam, taking our breath away. Since our last dispatch, we have been trekking up the Khumbu Valley taking in the sights and people. Tangboche was a magical monastery, letting us experience the monks life style from within their lives. We had a blessing ceremony from the head Lama. Today we are off to Loboche at 4,900 meters. We will sleep there and then head for Everest BC in a couple days following. 

This will be a quick dispatch, once we get BC set up we can write more.  

It's a fantastic morning to trek, clear, no wind and just beautiful land to walk upon.  

Will write again in 3-4 days. 

All the very best from our little three person team, just below Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest.

Much love and light, cheers, Marty, Giannina and Tim.
Marty Schmidt Int Guiding, MSIG
New Zealand

Earlier: MSIG, Marty Schmidt International Guiding signing in from Namche.

This is our 3rd day of the trek into BC. We walked all around this magical Khumbu region today, soaking up the energy that Sir Ed brought to this land back in the 50's with helping to build schools and medical clinics. The Sherpa people are such a proud culture, spanning many generations, still living the simple and true life style that most western cities are lacking or have never found and yet they are connected to the outside world with modern items and communication. The duality of living here is so amazing for most western people that we want to be with these people longer and longer. There is a warm welcoming for outside people to experience.

We leave tomorrow for Pangboche and then award to the 5,360 meter Base Camp, so that we can get established before we start pushing the route up the Khumbu Ice Fall. 

So to let you all know, we are doing well and happy. We are on schedule everyday now and looking forward to our next trek up the Khumbu Valley.

Sending our love and light everyday, cheers, Marty, Giannina and Tim

Earlier: 07/04/08 MSIG, Marty Schmidt International Guiding signing in for another day in Kathmandu.

All is well, Tim Burns arrived on time on the 6th April, had a good rest and up early to get some work completed around KTM. Our permits are in hand and the flights booked for early on the 8th April to Lukla. Our time spent in this magical  city is always a delight to the senses. But it is time to move on for greener hills and clearer air.  Off to experience the temples of the dedicated souls of this earth. Nothing but respect for these true believers.  

If all goes well, tomorrow morning we are up at 0500, eat some breakfast, catch a ride to the airport and load up for our flight to Lukla, 2866 meters, by 0700. We’ll start our trek within the same day towards Namche, 3,446 meters, along the way working with the village of Phakding. We’ll be taking 10 days of trekking time to get to Everest BC. Along this trek we’ll try to send in more dispatches and let you know how all is going with our small and dedicated team. 

Namaste from KTM. Marty

Earlier: Hello everyone and greetings from New Zealand, Giannina and I are all packed and ready to fly in the morning for Kathmandu, Nepal.

The journey has be changed from the North side of Everest to the South side within the past few weeks do to the Tibetan/Chinese situation in Lhasa and over the Olympic torch being taken to the summit or near it by just the Chinese climbers. No one else is allowed to be on the North side or even near the summit of Everest between the 1st of April to the 10th of May, while the torch is being taken up to it's highest point. Then after this time we are allowed to summit. All will be in place for Tim Burns, from Dallas, Texas, and I to push our camp to the 8000 meter Col for us to make our summit climb, most likely around the 20-25th of May.

We are flexible and focused with this goal. Not using any Sherpas or 02 will be the main goal for us and we are ready to make this happen.

Please join us while we climb Everest, you can log into www.everestnews.com at anytime and read about our ascent and others. I will write short blogs to Everestnews.com from time to time. It will not be everyday since we will be doing a lot of climbing and acclimatizing to prepare ourselves for the summit. Giannina will be around Base Camp and she will also write a few blogs from time to time.

Sending you all our very best energy, filled with adventure, light and happiness. Next time we'll send in some words from Kathmandu.

All the best, cheers, Marty, Giannina and Tim.

Earlier Update: Marty Schmidt is off to Everest again... "I have a 1 to 1 ratio, we are heading for the North ridge, no Sherpas and no 02. Making a higher mark to reach for I see a growing problem with too many people sucking 02 to low, up to 12 bottles now....." Marty, tell EverestNews.com

"Working hard is the only way to summit 8000 meter summits. People are forgetting how to work up high...", Marty

MSIG's Awards and Achievements

Awards and Achievements:

  • SUS Air Force Air Medal 1984, for rescuing 9 people from a burning hotel fire in the Philippines.
  • Guided 71 year old client to the summit of Denali in 1988 (the oldest person to have summitted Denali to date).
  • Climbed a new route on the northeast face of Everest, from the Tibetan side, in 1994.
  • Selected as a member of an International climbing team to climb K2 in 1992.
  • Rescued members of other teams while on Denali, Alaska, USA; Aconcagua, Argentina; Mt. Everest, Tibet.
  • K2 expedition in 2000 with International team to within meters of the top of K2.
  • First American to summit the southwest face on Kangchenjunga.
  • Second New Zealander to have ever summited Kangchenjunga (the first Kiwi was Norman Hardie in 1955).
  • World speed record on Cho Oyu on 28 September 2001 in 10 hours, 45 minutes from ABC to summit.
  • On 24 September, 2004 on Cho Oyu, Tibet, summited a client with no O2 being used and no Sherpa support. Then helped rescue a man in his 50's from Camp II to Camp I who was having a very hard time at the 7000 meter mark. After 20 hours rest at ABC, I headed back up for a 13 hour ascent, using no fixed lines, no O2, no support, carrying all my own ski gear. Then skied from the summit to the end of the snow at Camp I in 3 hours. The snow conditions were the worst, breakable 30mm wind slab crust, that boil plated with most turns. The 10 meter rock band and vertical ice serac were the most technical parts to ski off of. Only a few people in the world have skied from the summit of an 8000 meter mountain.
A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.




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