Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
Banners Ads
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace


   Mailing List

News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Seven Summits
   Readers Guide

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement






 Everest North side 2009: Adventure Peaks : Base Camp


Everyone is now safely back at Base Camp after their first climb to the North Col at 7000m. Andy E, Paul, Jack, Allan & Paul all successfully reached the col on the 30th April while Andrew W, Lianne & Troy all turned around just 100m shy of the ridge. Chris had an easier day towards Crampon Corner to aid his acclimatisation. In a few days the team will climb back to the North Col to spend the night at 7000m for the first time. Shelagn has now left on her journey back to Kathmandu leaving the team in good spirits. It seems Chris has some stories to tell and Paul's beard is no more!

29th April The team arrived at ABC yesterday and have spent their time resting and acclimatizing on the slopes around the camp. They will walk to the bottom of the headwall today before they head up to the North Col in a couple of days time.

23rd April The group have now been up to 6000m and are awaiting for the arrival of the yaks ready for their departure to Advance Base Camp on Saturday or Sunday.  Everyone is well and in high spirits. 

18th April The full group have arrived safely in Base Camp and are now taking further acclimatisation walks. Jack managed to sample the local dentist en route, but it sounds like he survived and is in good spirit.

14th April Paul emailed in today. The team have now got the permit and are heading towards the border today. All being well they will cross over into Tibet tomorrow.

11th April Paul's just reported in from Kathmandu where the team are eating - again! The plan is to head north to Tibet first thing on Tuesday morning. With there prior acclimatisation it should only be a couple of days before they are settling in to Base Camp


9th April Hello from Namche, again! : Well a lot has happened in the last while, difficult to know where to start. The team still going strong and eating.......alot. I had always believed altitude put people off food, not this lot. Guest houses are desperately sending porters out to find more chocolate cake for Lianne and there will be a national tea shortage soon! Several members are now trying to find bigger down suits.  Yesterday we visited Ama Dablam base camp with members moving up to just under 5000 metres. Back at the Namaste Lodge we were greeted with the news that the Tibetan border has been opened. A few phone calls were made, then a big ( and probably first serious) discussion took place. We've decided to head down and will drive to the border early next week.
We will be in Lukla tomorrow and will fly as soon as possible to KTM.
As I sat eating breakfast this morning, who did I spy walking up the trail? (guess at this point......no you're wrong) Sir Chris Bonnington! Alan (chief blagger) was sent to offer tea. Sir Chris spent an hour with the team which was very enjoyable. He very much liked our plan to head North. I think he will probably like it more when he sees the tents on South side base camp. There is a lot of equipment and members heading up that way.
Everyone is well- we are very excited about stage 2 of our trip, I personally suspect they are only interested in eating breakfast in a KTM hotel. Paul Noble.

8th April The team have now reached Pangboche, the hometown of many of our High Altitude Sherpas, where they are staying at the tea house owned by Nuru & Sonam's family

6th April Andy Edwards emailed in today. The team went for a walk up to Khunde & Khumjung Monastery today, the highlight was a 30 second clearing in the cloud and a view of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse. The group then went to visit Ang Temba Sherpa, the first sherpa to summit Kanchenjunga. Allan had climbed with his Grandson on Baruntse last year. They finished off the day with a visit to their favourite German bakery in Namche.

5th April Paul has emailed in from Namche. All the team are in good spirits and have enjoyed a bit of a rest after their long flight and early morning departure form Kathmandu. Although the only complaint from the team is that they are getting fat from all the food they are eating. Life has been tough for the team with only enough chocolate cake to go around the group at the bakery. They will rest at Namche tomorrow, before heading on further up the Khumbu.

Earlier: 2nd April The team have all arrived in Kathmandu and are all really excited about the Adventure that is about to begin. They had lunch at Northfields cafe and have had time for bit of shopping in Thamel. Due to the border not being open yet to Tibet they will fly to Lukla tomorrow and begin their acclimatization in the Khumbu. Once the border is open they will head back to Kathmandu and cross over into Tibet.

Earlier: Adventure Peaks is returning to Everest again in Spring 2009! Adventure Peaks has run several succesful Everest expeditions over the years...

The Team: Leader : Paul Noble

Climbers: Troy Aupperle, Andrew Edwards, Paul James, Lianne Noble, Chris Rudge, Jack Sutcliffe, Allan Thomas and Andrew Williams

Lhakpa Ri & North Col : Kevin Burt, Shelagh Duncan, Kerrie McMartin

They are expected to go North side...

Everest from the South Side in Nepal

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit). 

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push. 

The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As youíre leaving C4Öitís a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and thereís not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately itís not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. Thereís a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as youíre getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because itís impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as itís easier to keep moving down the Spur when itís important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which arenít so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, itís just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.  

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.


A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz ē 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Corduraģ upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibramģ rubber rand See more here.




   Atlas snowshoes


   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond







   Edelweiss ropes
Eureka Tents






   Granite Gear



   Helly Hansen


Ice Axes


   Kavu Eyewear





   Life is Good


   Lowe Alpine




   Mountain Hardwear




   New England Ropes




   Outdoor Research




   Princeton Tec


   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins




   Seattle Sports

Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope







   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
and more here


Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it