Hello SummitClimb. This is Arnold calling from basecamp with
another update from our Mt. Everest Tibet climb.
The day before yesterday we brought Aref down from ABC on a
yak. He said he’s improving as he goes lower. Yesterday he drove to the border
to Zhangmu and I got the news today that he safely passed the border and they
are on their way to Kathmandu. So they are nice and warmer in Kathmandu than
right here in basecamp, where it’s snowing right now.
I wonder what’s going to happen with our yaks because they
were supposed to come down today so that we could leave for Kathmandu
tomorrow. I hope our yaks will arrive here. The plan is that the group will
leave from basecamp on the 27th and arrive in Kathmandu on the 28th. The
expedition is finished and everyone is good to go home and see their friends
Here is the official list of all of our summiters and all
the times. Our summit date was 20 May and here are the summiters: Rob Springer
(USA) together with Lopshang at ¼ past 8:00, Herve Coron (France) together
with Jangbu Sherpa at ¼ past 8:00, Honglu (Alan) Chen (USA) together with
Yangzhen at 8:30, Nima Yazdipour (Iran) together with Lakpa at 9:00, and Aref
Geranmayeh (Iran) together with Pasang at 11:00. These are the official summit
names and summit times, so this is what I’ll tell to Ms. Hawley in Kathmandu,
who keeps official Himalayan summit records.
We’re looking forward to going home and finishing the
expedition. As soon as the cars arrive, I’ll give you another update. Bye,
Hello SummitClimb news. This is Arnold calling again from
We have some good news. Elizabeth and Gordon are back in
ABC. Unfortunately they had to abandon their summit attempt because of very
strong winds and their help in bringing Nima and Aref down from camp 3 caused
them a lot of time and energy. They are happy with their resolve and happy to
be safely back down in ABC.
Once again, for all of the people who worried about Nima and
Aref, they are safe in ABC. They are healthy and okay. I have received many
messages on my telephone and it’s impossible to answer them all. Tomorrow they
will probably go lower down to basecamp and they will contact family and
friends as soon as possible. They have been trying to call family members, but
they have not been getting through to everyone. So please do not worry and
please do not send me any more messages because it is impossible for me to
answer them all by satellite. As soon as they are in basecamp they will give
more news and make more calls. They are trying to call but not everyone picks
That is it for now. I’ll call if I have an update when our
expedition is going to finish. I ordered the yaks for tomorrow or the day
after tomorrow, so I think pretty soon we will be back in Kathmandu enjoying
some good food. Thanks. Bye, bye.
Earlier: This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest
Tibet and North Col expedition calling from ABC at about 6400 metres/21,000
feet on 20 May.
I’m calling with some good news. This morning between 8:00
and 9:00 five members and five sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. So
the members names are; Herve Coron (France), Rob Springer (USA), Aref
Geranmayeh (Iran) , Nima Yazdipour (Iran) and Alan Chen (USA), together with
sherpas Yangjen, Jangbu, Lakpa, Pasang, and Lopshang.
I have no information yet about exact times when people
summited. The weather was perfect. They had a windless summit and they are all
on their way back to camp 3 right now.
As soon as I have good details and information about the
times I will tell you, but all members are doing great, they are safely on the
way back down, and the weather is perfect. This evening I will call in with
more news. We will probably also have some North Col summits this evening. So
stay tuned. Bye, bye.
SummitClimb news. This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest
Tibet and North Col expedition calling from ABC at about 6400 metres/21,000
feet on 15 May.
Today our North Col members: Pierre, Gary
and Frank made it safely up to ABC after spending just 2 nights in
intermediate camp at 5800 metres/19,000 feet. They made it up here quite fast.
They’re doing very well and are very healthy. Tomorrow they will rest and then
we’ll do our rope practice before climbing the North Col.
Everest members Nima, Aref, Biff, Herve,
Rob, and Alan are here. They’re waiting for the weather to do their summit
attempt of Everest and it looks like we will probably have a chance on the
20th. We will check the weather forecast again tomorrow to be sure. If the
weather forecast is true we will probably leave the day after tomorrow to
climb to the North Col, camp 2, camp 3 and hopefully summit on the 20th of
Gordon, Elizabeth and Edwin are coming up
tomorrow. They’re going to be in our second summit group and they will
probably leave about 2 days behind the main group.
Everything is going well. The Chinese and
Japanese groups are on their way to the summit right now. They probably will
reach 8300 metres tomorrow. We’ll just sit here and let them go first and see
The bad weather changed. There is still a
small chance of some snow around the 18th of May according to the weather
forecast, but it looks very good and everything is going well.
When I have more news I’ll call in again.
This is Arnold signing off from ABC. Bye, bye.
SummitClimb news. This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the Everest Tibet
expedition calling from basecamp on the 9th of May.
This is our second night in
basecamp and we are all resting, enjoying the showers, and having a good
sleep. 4 of our members; Gordon, Aref, Elizabeth, and Allen went down to the
village of Shegar to sleep even lower to make sure to get a good rest for the
summit. All members are relaxing and doing fine.
It’s still very cold here
in basecamp and very windy. It’s not normal for this time of year. We’re
waiting to see what the weather is going to do, but our plan is to go back up
to ABC around the 12th of May. Everything is looking good. All we need is a
good weather period so we can summit. I will call in when I have some more
news. Until then, bye, bye.
Hello SummitClimb news. This is Arnold Coster, the leader of
the Everest Tibet expedition calling from the North Col at 7000 metres/23,000
feet on the 5th of May.
Tonight, all members are spending their second night on the
North Col. Everybody climbed up here yesterday. Everybody did really well.
Today we tried to gain some more altitude, but it was kind
of hard because of the serious wind we experienced. Some members reached as
high as 7,600 members/24,000 metres, so no worries. We’re now just hanging out
here in the altitude to get more acclimatization before we go down for our
final rest. Also, today our sherpas took up most of what we will need in camp
2, so they did a very good job in such strong winds.
Tomorrow we will all descend to ABC, sleep in ABC, and the
day after will go to basecamp for our final rest. Until tomorrow, this is
Arnold Coster signing off from the North Col. Bye, bye
Earlier: This is Gordon Hopper
reporting for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet 2009 expedition. It is my pleasure
to give this report on the 26th of April on our first day of real
Up to this point, we had
only really been trekking, but today we ascended the glacier wall to camp 1 at
7000 metres/23,000 feet. The morning started with a hike to crampon point at
6500 metres/21,300 feet. This was followed by a 100 metre ascent on the
glacier to the base of the North Col. After this it was a 45 degree ascent on
a mixture of blue ice and compacted snow on fixed lines.
All of the members either
reached the Col or were within 100 metres of it. At this altitude the ascent
was extremely strenuous because our bodies are not meant to function in such
oxygen deprived air. Further more, we only reached advanced basecamp at 6400
metres/21,000 feet 4 days ago.
Tomorrow we are going to
descend to basecamp at 5200 metres/17,000 feet to let our bodies recover,
rest, have a shower, wash clothes, and regain our appetites. Best wishes to my
Greetings news readers.
This is Edwin Ludlow calling from advanced basecamp at 6400 metres/21,000 feet
for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on 25 April.
Today was day 28 of our
expedition. Last night was a little colder than usual at about -20 C. Most
people arose at about 9:00 a.m. This might seem a little late, but we’re
operating on Beijing time, which is a few thousand miles away.
A delicious breakfast was
served in our comfortable dining tent at 10:00 by our awesome cooks. After
breakfast we packed our rucksacks with ice-axe and crampons, put on our
climbing boots, and departed upwards towards the North Col on an
It’s amazing how much the
camps have expanded in the last few days in all directions with 60 or 70 yaks
arriving and departing daily. They cannot stay at this altitude for more than
a few hours. It took us a full 10 minutes to clear the campsite. Some of the
tents seem large enough to house a small helicopter.
The air is getting thinner
and we are all gasping to get the last few molecules of oxygen available. The
trail is a bit rough with occasional snow and ice patches. To the left (the
east) are ice blue seracs and on the right (the west) are towering cliffs of
rock, which are sometimes unstable. On the snow and ice face ahead of us, we
can see the line of our sherpas climbing steadily towards the North Col camp.
When we arrived at the
crampon point, where we attach crampons to go higher, the fuel we had for
climbing higher waned, so we lazed in the sun and had a few snacks before
returning to ABC.
After yesterday’s puja, it
was amazing how colourful the campsite looked, with bands of prayer flags
strewn from one side to the other. Following lunch, most people laid in their
Tomorrow we intend to climb
up to the North Col and then return to advanced basecamp. The day after we
will return to basecamp for a few days, where there will be a fight over the
shower tents no doubt.
As a footnote, I would like
to send my love and best regards to my dear wife Joyce. Over and out.
Hi, this is Aref Geranmayeh reporting in for the SummitClimb
Everest Tibet expedition on April 24th from ABC.
We had a great puja ceremony today with the sherpas to bless
our safe passage on the mountain. Hopefully the celebration will bring luck to
our expedition. Now that we’ve had the puja, our sherpas will begin setting up
the higher camps and working their way up the mountain.
After lunch, all of the members went to the East Rongbuk
Glacier to do a bit of training and practice ice climbing techniques with the
We’re excited to begin our climb of Everest. Thanks for
following along our expedition and we’ll keep you updated. Bye.
Hi, this is Nima Yazdipour
reporting in for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on April 23rd.
All members left
intermediate basecamp at 11:00 a.m. in perfect weather and we started climbing
to ABC. The route was surrounded by amazing icy towers on one side and high
mountains on the other side.
The team’s proper
acclimatization is our main goal each day, so we made a decision to hike very
slowly and continue the process of acclimatizing as easily as possible.
All team members reached
ABC at 6400 metres/21,000 metres after 5-7 hours of trekking. The weather was
a bit windy in ABC after we arrived.
The sherpas who left
intermediate basecamp yesterday had already set up our advanced basecamp by
the time we arrived.
ABC is located between the
East Rongbuk Glacier on the left side and Changtse Mountain on the right side.
Last, but not least, all members are healthy
and well acclimatized. We are all planning to reach the upper camps in the
coming days. Thank you. Bye
Hello SummitClimb news.
This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the Everest Tibet expedition calling in a
dispatch for 21 April from interim camp at 5750 metres/19,000 feet.
All members spent their
first night here. Everybody is healthy and fine. Yesterday the members and all
of our equipment left basecamp. 3000 kilograms of equipment were loaded on
more than 70 yaks. Early in the morning our staff left interim camp together
with the yaks and set up ABC at about 6400 metres/21,000 feet.
We will spend a second
night here at interim camp because it gives our bodies more time to get used
to the altitude. Also, the staff will be able to set up ABC before we arrive.
Tomorrow we all have a long
day of fun hiking ahead of us. I will call in again once we've reached ABC.
Until tomorrow, this is Arnold. Bye, bye
Earlier: Hi, this is Dr. Biff Palmer
reporting in for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on April 19th.
This is our 3rd day in
Chinese Basecamp at 5200 metres/17,000 feet. Members have used this day to
continue the acclimatization process. Activities have ranged from short hikes
in the neighbouring hills, washing clothes, reading, and playing chess. Many
also used the day to take showers in our rudimentary, but functional shower
The camp is situated in a
valley in which the North Face of Everest towers above one end. The beauty of
the mountain is particularly noteworthy at sunset, at which time the face
takes on a bright orange hue. Equally as impressive are the nighttime skies.
Without city lights, one can easily see the brightly lit Milky Way extend from
one horizon to the other.
Health wise, the team is in
good shape. Several members have had minor respiratory colds, but nothing
serious. For my professional colleagues, renal function is stable. We
anxiously await the arrival tomorrow of 56 yaks to carry equipment to what is
called ABC (advanced basecamp).at 6400 metres/21,000 feet.
The team will move tomorrow
towards ABC, but spend two nights at an interim camp at 5800 metres/19,000
feet to continue the acclimatization process.
As I sign off, I send my
love to my two precious children, Robert and Kelly Palmer.
Hi, this is a dispatch for
the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on April 18th from Everest Basecamp
at 5200 metres/17,000 feet.
Yesterday after breakfast
we left Tingri and drove very anxiously through the Tibetan Himalayan
foothills, with spectacular views of the mountains and numerous yak herding
families towards basecamp.
After arriving at basecamp
around noon, we helped set up tents and unpacked our gear. The rest of the day
we spent exploring our immediate surroundings and enjoying the view of Everest
towering over us.
After a mild night of -5
degrees centigrade, half of our group explored the way up to IBC (Intermediate
Basecamp), while the others walked down the valley to the Rongbuk Monastery
for a puja ceremony, blessings for a safe and successful climb.
After a tasty lunch, we
relaxed in basecamp and continued our acclimatization to the rising altitude.
Bye for now.
April 16: Hi, this is
Richard Little calling in for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on
April 16th from Tingri in Tibet.
We’re at about 4400
metres/14,000 feet spending a rest day here before going on to basecamp
tomorrow. We left Kathmandu at about 4:30 a.m. on the 14th and arrived at the
Friendship Bridge on the border at about 9:30 a.m. that morning. It took us
about 5 hours to clear the processing at the border, which was kind of tough
for us because most of us got very little sleep the night before, as it was
New Year’s Eve on the Hindu calendar. There was lots of activity going on in
the hotels and streets of Kathmandu with lots of noise, but we were anxious to
After crossing through the
border we spent the night in Zhangmu, which is a border town. Then the next
morning we spent what can only be described as 6 teeth-jarring hours on dirt
roads to get here to Tingri. It’s an extraordinary place located up on the
It’s been great because
we’ve now switched our diets from Nepalese to Chinese food for a change. All
of the food has been really great with lots of it.
Everyone is doing fine here
and looking forward to being in basecamp tomorrow. With that, I will say bye
for now. This is Richard Little signing off.
Earlier: 15 April, 2009: Hello SummitClimb news.
This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the Everest Tibet expedition calling in a
dispatch for 15 April from Tingri in Tibet. Yesterday we had a hard day
crossing the border in Zhangmu, but eventually we managed to get into Tibet.
It was a bit hard for me to call, so that's why I'm reporting in now.
This morning we left Zhangmu early at
7:00 a.m. Chinese time and drove to Tingri. The whole team is in Tingri now at
4300 metres/14,200 feet. Tomorrow we will also stay in Tingri so that the
truck with all of our equipment can catch up and go ahead to basecamp. When we
show up our basecamp will be ready.
All members are doing fine and healthy.
Everybody was a little bit irritated from the long wait for the visa and also
the long wait at the border crossing, but everything is good now. Our
expedition is finally getting started.
The weather is perfect. I'm sitting on
top of a hill right now looking at Everest and Cho Oyu and they just look
gorgeous. There are very few foreign teams here, so I think we may have a big
mountain for ourselves.
I will send the next dispatch in once
we reach basecamp. Bye, bye.
Earlier: Hi SummitClimb news readers, Yesterday we finally got the
got news from Lhasa that our Everest permit is approved. Now we only have to
see how fast they can wrap up the paperwork.
We had a very good trek up to Kala Patar. All members
reached above 5300 metres/17,400 feet and some even went up to 5500 metres/18,000
feet. Because we are all used to the altitude now, we can drive straight to
basecamp and be able to make up for lost time.
Actually, we are very lucky to see both sides of the
mountain and the trek in the Khumbu Valley is so nice.
Today we will trek for about 8 hours back to Lukla and if
everything goes well weather wise, we will fly back to Kathmandu Friday
This is it for now and I hope the next message will be from
Tibet in a couple of days. -Arnold Coster
SummitClimb news readers. This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the Everest
Tibet and Lhakpa Ri/North Col expedition reporting in.
The whole Everest Tibet group is in Namche
now, except for Herve.
It is still not sure when we will receive
the Tibet permit, so instead of waiting in noisy, dusty Kathmandu, we decided
to go into the mountains to start our acclimatisation.
We will climb as high as possible, so we
can skip days on the drive into Tibet. This way we will not loose a lot of
time. We are having contact with Tibet every day and they are positive we will
get a permit and visa. It's just a little bit delayed.
Today everybody walked to the 'Everest
View Hotel' and got some very good views of Everest. Tomorrow we will probably
go to Pangboche at about 4000 metres/13,000 feet to gain some more altitude.
The whole team is very happy to be here and thinks this little side trip is
like a bonus.
As soon as I have more news about the
opening of Tibet, I will report it to you. This is it for now.
Dan and his company is planning to return to Everest again in 2009 with
several expeditions. Some of the highlights...
A. Mount Everest. In May of 2008, we put 14 members on the summit with 14
sherpas. We have very strong and experienced leaders with some of the most
helpful and accomplished sherpas you will ever meet. Our equipment is superb
and the meals are delicious. Leaders: Dan Mazur, Arnold Coster, Sam Mansikka,
Max Kausch. Our 10th Everest expedition!
A. The original first ascent route made famous by Tenzing and Hillary in
1953. 29 March to 5 June 2009,
B. The exotic and less-expensive side of Everest, made famous by Mallory
and Irvine in 1928. 29 March to 5 June 2009
C. Now offering (for those who need to do-it-all) the 'Everest-Traverse'
over the summit from Nepal to Tibet AND Tibet to Nepal.
D. Mount Lhotse (fourth highest in the world and climbed from the same
route as Everest) In May of 2008, we placed 5 members on the top including 4
Sherpas. Leaders: Dan Mazur, Arnold Coster, Sam Mansikka. Our 5th Lhotse
expedition! 29 March to 5 June 2009
E. Cho Oyu (6th highest in the world located beside Everest,
most-accessible of the world's fourteen 26,000 foot peaks) In October of 2008,
13 members made the summit including the first woman to ski from the summit
along with 5 sherpas. High-fun snow-climb. We teach you everything you need to
know. Our 8th Cho Oyu expedition! 23 April to 30 May or 1
September to 8 October
Etc etc... Looks like Dan and Summitclimb will be busy again in 2009..
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