Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Turkish-Led Team Summits Shishapangma

Dear EverestNews.com,

Hello! Hope you are safe and well. Attached is my Shishapangma summit report plus pictures.

İ will be climbing Nanga Parbat this summer.

All the best from Turkey,
Tunc


SUMMİT AT SHİSHAPANGMA (8013 m/26,290 ft) 30 April, 2013

I was able to climb the main summit of Mount Shishapangma (8013 m) without using supplemental oxygen. This was my 9th 8000 m peak (with 2 times Mount Everest, using different routes).

We started our expedition 13 April from Katmandu, Nepal. Using the caravan route of Kodari border- Nyalam (3700 m), Lalung pass (5150 m), and Chinese Base Camp of Shisha (5000 m). We started on the Tibetan plateau together with a horde of yaks to reach the Advnaced Base Camp at 5700 m by the Shishapangma glacier. From there, passing a small icefall at the glacier we made one acclimatisation trip to Camp 1 (6350 m) and Camp 2 (6850 m), and started to look for an opportunity in the weather. This presented itself as a less windy day soon at 30 April.

Using a high camp at 7100 m on the corridor, we climbed to Camp 3 (7400 m) and traversed the Austrian route or İnyaki variant on the heavily glaciated NE face of Shisha to take on the east ridge to the main summit (thus bypassing the north ridge and central summit route). By 12.15 30 April, we climbed a few knife-edge sharp ridges on ice to gain the main summit of Shisha, a not-often climbed route to a tricky summit. My climbing partners included Chhang Dawa Sherpa (Mingma Sherpa’s bro, he finished all 14 8000 m summits with Shisha). Also, an Ecuadorian friend Santiago Quintero, Romanian Alex Gavan, and Mingma Thunduk Sherpa and Nima Lama Sherpa.

The ascent was generally much windier and colder than we thought and it took us a round trip of 15 hours or so to do. Our luck, the snow and ice conditions were very fine, with no avalanche danger in the NE face. Thus I was able to make the first Turkish ascent to the real summit of Shishapangma. Our climb took a total of 20 days to complete, and Tibet -as usual- was very, very cold, a real deep freezer! [Photos below]

 

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 







 

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



  



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it