2006 Winter Makalu Team’s
official news: This morning (Nepalese time), an helicopter flew over Makalu
for 40 to 45 minutes, reaching about 7000m. The crew was able to locate Jean-Christophe’s
tent lying at 7600m, but there was no sign of the renowned French climber.
The weather was great. Jean-Christophe disappeared between 7600 m and
Makalu’s summit. Katia Lafaille is leaving France for Katmandu on Wednesday
(February 1st). There will be another flight next Saturday in order to bring
back Jean-Christophe’s gear. Yan
Official statement of the winter
team Makalu 2006: A helicopter flew over this morning Tuesday January 31
Makalu around 7000 m during 40/45 minutes they saw the the tent of
Jean-Christophe remained at 7600 meter, without sign of him, the weather is
good. Jean-Christophe disappeared between 7600 m and the top. Katia Lafaille
leaves Wednesday February 1 for Katmandu. There will be a flight hélico to
recover the material Saturday 4. Yan the router of Jean-Christophe.
Previous Update: If was not possible for the helicopter to leave to look for
Jean-Christophe yesterday. The wait continues...
Previous Update: Jean-Christophe still did not give a news. (A rough translation
of the news..)
Monday January 30
Jean-Christophe has still not appeared . The conditions allow a flight today:
the wind blows between 30 to 35 km/h to 7 500 m.
A plane will fly over Makalu in order to try to locate the tent of
If it is always there, that will mean that it probably fell into a crack
between its bivouac and the top.
In solo, impossible to be ensured, it was the greatest risk run by the
The French mountaineer
Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 39 years, launched in an attempt at winter rise as a
recluse of Makalu (8.463 meters) and which has not given sign of life for 72
hours, was reported missing by his close relations Sunday.
"I asked for a recognition in the helicopter and also with a small plane, the
helicopter which cannot go up beyond a certain altitude", declared Katia
Lafaille, wife and manager of the mountaineer, joined on the telephone by the
The flight of the helicopter should take place Tuesday, specified Sunday
evening on the telephone Serge Koening, adviser mountain of the minister to
Youth and the sports.
The helicopter should also land with the base camp, where a cook and two
carriers are. One always counts on a total breakdown of the equipment of
transmission, which would prevent Lafaille from giving its news after a
possible return to the base camp. "Bus if this hope is mean, it should not be
eliminated", declared Serge Koening, who is, like Lafaille, professor at the
national School of ski and alpinism (ENSA).
The close relations of the mountaineer were not in liaison with the base camp,
but only with Jean-Christophe Lafaille itself, which had a satellite
telephone. The last communication goes back to Thursday January 26, whereas it
was with 7.600 meters, the day before the final attack. Party Tuesday January
24 of its base camp, with 5.300 meters, it bivouacked the evening even with
6.000 meters, the 25 to 6.900 meters and the 26 to 7.600 meters, according to
It was to leave in the night and to gain the top Friday January 27. The
contact envisaged the same day, at the end of this attempt, did not take
place, indicated Mrs. Lafaille and, since, it was not possible any more to
join the mountaineer.
One initially explained his silence by a technical breakdown of transmission.
The batteries of its apparatuses were very low at the time of the last
contact, explained one then in his entourage. But concern grew Saturday, in
the absence of communication, whereas it should have joined its base camp,
where is another satellite telephone.
The weather conditions were difficult. At the time of his last conversation
with his wife, Jean-Christophe Lafaille explained that it made -30°C under his
small tent of bivouac and that it had the frosted face. "It did not sleep all
these nights, because of altitude and of the cold", had then explained Mrs.
Lafaille. "But it felt in form and justified", she had added.
According to mountaineers' with Chamonix, of which some recently climbed
Makalu, the way comprises extremely delicate passages on very crevassés
glaciers where the risk of fall is very high.
Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed eleven tops of more than 8.000 meters, the
majority as a recluse or by new ways. He already succeeded in December 2004
winter as a recluse and alpine style in Sishapangma (8.064 meters), up to that
point considered to be impossible on the most 8.000 meters.
In 1992, whereas it made its beginnings in the himalayism with the mountaineer
Pierre Beghin in the southern face of Annapurna, this last had made a fall
mortal with 7.000 meters of altitude. Left only and without material of
assurage, Jean-Christophe Lafaille had then désescaladé the southern face, in
a way of cross which had lasted five days, reappearing with the base camp
whereas one gave it for death.
Previous Update: Jean-Christophe left Makalu’s Base Camp
last week but has not reported in. The hope and prayers are that his sat phone
Please send your
positive energy and prayers to Jean-Christophe....
Previous Update: Translation by Dr. Jean-François
is finally on! Jean-Christophe has left Makalu’s BC and summit is right now
his legitimate target! As weather forecasts remain very unstable,
Jean-Christophe will have to adapt to a constantly changing climate, maybe
waiting one or two days in high altitude camps. He plans to reach Makalu’s
summit in 5 to 6 days. Moral is good and so is motivation, even tough
conditions are harsh. There’s a huge difference between climbing a 8000m
summit and a mountain of almost 8500m; acclimatization is longer and harder
above 8000m, progression becomes a lot slower, a good window is essential
(about 48 hours for Jean-Christophe on Makalu), so everything is a lot more
difficult, especially when you’re on your own! Remember that Makalu is still
awaiting its first successful winter climb; in the past, about a dozen of
expeditions tried, without success, to climb the mighty giant in winter.
Makalu is Nepal’s only 8000m mountain that remains unclimbed in winter! Jean-Christophe’s
actual challenge is very ambitious! After last winter’s solo success on
Shishapangma (December 2004) in alpine style, you can be sure that
Jean-Christophe will do his very best to conquer the fifth highest mountain on
Earth, which stands at almost 8500m!
Translation by Dr. Jean-François
2005/2006: First Makalu’s winter ascent and solo!!!
Jean-Christophe Lafaille will realize during winter 2005/2006, his twelfth
summit higher than 8000 meters with the first winter ascent
solo and without oxygen to the MAKALU 8481 meters. This mountain
was tried several times in winter by expeditions known as "heavy" (see
appendix; "Alpine" style and "heavy" expeditions) of which one was by Reinhold
of the first 8000 in winter by Jean-Christophe, on December 11, 2004 on the
"Shishapangma" (8036m) served to him as a test for the incoming project. He
made up a very positive assessment of its mental and physical resistance under
extreme conditions and could evaluate the aspects to be practised in its
preparation. Polish, specialists in heavy winter expeditions, affirmed that it
was impossible to carry out a winter ascent of a 8000 in alpine style (see
appendix; The "Alpine" style and "heavy" expeditions) With the ascent of
Shishapangma Jean-Christophe still showed that it was possible while being
alone, without infrastructure at the base camp besides its cook!
Partners/Products: Since one year we are hard working on the preparation of
this winter 2005. This preparation includes clothing and the technical
material, the food, the physical training and the mental one. Beyond the
physical and mental training, the word "protection" joins together the whole
of our technical partners on different points thus complementary. Without
them, without this confidence regarding their know-how this project would not
Products. These products make possible the impossible, products which ensure
an irreproachable and completely reliable protection to be calm in any
circumstance. Collaboration with GORE-TEX lasts already for almost 10 years
and enables Jean-Christophe to profit from new technologies, to have products
made to measure to answer the extremely demanding schedule of his conditions.
A product or a weakening membrane, badly conceived at 8000 meters can cost the
life to Jean-Christophe. He does not have right to the error and neither the
manufacturers. Collaboration that Jean-Christophe maintains with his technical
partners goes beyond "sponsoring", it is above all the reciprocal confidence
and the best which surround him. They form part of the key of its success.
Jean-Christophe will use for this winter Makalu 2005 Mountain Hardwear in
GORE-TEX XCR products and sleeping bags as well as the tents of altitude
Mountain Hardwear which currently are the best on the market. Under the
request of Jean-Christophe, they carried out a tent of bivouac ultra light for
Sport and Jean-Christophe have designed an "innovative” sleeping bag for his
expedition in December 2004, it will go out again with this perfect product
baptized "Shishapangma" by Lestra Sports. The “dry salaisons"Black Mountain",
bring quality products with essential nutritional interests in expeditions;
Jean-Christophe regularly consumes them throughout the year and during his
expeditions. Collaboration with LPG Systems which develops and manufactures
machines which enable to work balance, coordination, the muscular
reinforcement, recovery allow to refine this demanding preparation.
It is made up, of course, by the partners of Jean-Christophe but also by:
Lafaille: wife and manager of Jean-Christophe.
Giezendanner: Router weather
Professionalism: Since four years, Jean-Christophe has still reached a stage
in his course, the ascents which he has carried out for all these years make
that he has acquired maturity and experience while remaining passionate by
what he does. The projects which he considers today join together these
elements and require an extremely high preparation. Absolutely nothing is left
randomly, material, alimentation, physique, mental, relax, each element of his
preparation is thoroughly calculated, studied to reach the "perfection". It is
something new in the world of the mountain, extremely enriching and
interesting. Passion, professionalism, assiduity, perseverance, the patience
of Jean-Christophe and those around him make possible his ascents very
committed on the summits of more than 8000 meters.
complete autonomy, as Jean-Christophe likes it; to well manage its strategy of
ascent under conditions of extreme cold, its tiredness, and its mental force.
He does not wish to climb the summits of more than 8000 meters only to collect
them, he gives a great importance to the way in which he will climb this or
that mountain. He likes the difficulty, engagement, to explore the universe of
the high altitude. He has never used an artificial oxygen contribution in
expedition (which lowers the person of approximately 1000m which means to say
that one person who reaches 8000 m with oxygen is in fact physiologically at
7000m... in sporting terms it is not the same...) because what interests him
is precisely to climb there by himself. If he did not have the physiological
capacity to climb the 8000, he would simply climb less high tops.
his potential, the characteristic which defines Jean-Christophe it is his very
futuristic vision of the alpinism... In 1996, he connects in less than four
days Gasherbrum I and II (8068m and 8035m), in 2002 with the ascent of
Annapurna he shows that it is possible to traverse fifteen kilometres on an
edge during four days in the "thin air" between 7200 and 8000 meters, in
December 2004, he carries out the first winter ascent of Shishapangma solo and
in alpine style. The barriers which he makes fall make possible to imagine
8481m: Situation: Mahalangur Himal, Nepal oriental.27°53’ lat.N / 87°05’
Summit : May 15 1955 via north west edge by Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray
to 27 November 2005: end of the preparation abroad
2006: back to France.
follow-up: Katia Lafaille, in liaison regularly with Jean-Christophe, will put
on line on their site www.jclafaille.com information in real time about Jean-Christophe’s
progression. The largest site on mountain will translate into English and will
put on line the official communiqués that Katia will send to them on
WINTER in Himalaya:
problem in the ascent of summits of more than 8000 meters in winter is mainly
related to the cold large mixture + altitude. In a very simplistic way here is
in two lines what happens: when one is in a state of hypoxia (lack of oxygen)
blood thickens, blood circulation slow down, the risks of frostbite are then
high in winter with temperatures even colder and shorter days this process is
also very problematic because the solid mass undergoes almost every day the
famous "Jet Stream" whose airliners use for fly which blow on average of
160/180km/h. When he climbed the Shishapangma, the wind at the top was 70
km/h. The temperature this day at the top was of -35°, by adding the speed of
the wind (wind chill) it reached approximately - 60 °.
« Alpine »
style and « Heavy » expeditions: The difference between the alpine style and
heavy expeditions are as follows: Heavy expeditions install progressively with
their progression on the mountain fixed cords on which the mountaineers rise
with a handle car-blocking (called the jumar) during the rise and the descent
like self-insurance. Besides the base camp, several other camps are installed
on the mountain; an advanced base camp, a camp 1, camp 2, camp 3 and even
sometimes a camp 4. This style of ascent does not require technical qualities
of climbing and requires much material on the mountain.
style is at the opposite and requires technical qualities of climber because
there are not fixed cords installed (except for the delicate passage of a
crack for example or a short portion and very technique of a passage on the
route) thus not safety as well on the rise as in the descent. In addition,
there is possibly an advanced base camp but then there are not several camps
installed on the mountain. The same camp moves with the climber and follows
him according to his acclimatization. This technique leaves the mountain
"clean" but is very committed, the most committed one in the Himalayas.
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