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  Everest 2007:  Alexander Abramov 7 Summits Club Everest expedition: moving on up...


April, 22 2007 Everest АBC from the North, 6400м.

April, 22. Two days of bad weather. And so we had to change our plans. Our Sherpas could not finished their work on the Saddle. We have made a training in seracs near the camp. Horizontal – vertical fixed ropes and abseiling.

April, 23.: Today we made a good outing to the base of the North Wall. All 15 persons are in good form, everything is OK. Sherpas have finished their work on the North Col, our cook Pumba was left to watch our tents.

Maxud Jumaev and Vassily Pevtsov came again to our camp. They decided to have one day more of rest. It seems that they will start to climb Everest. As usual, without O2.

Tomorrow morning guide Sergey Larin with his mini-team Rafael Nagapetianz and Alexander Kibalko (the well-known skater) have left to ABC camp.

We plan to reach tomorrow the North Col and to spend a night on 7100м.

Earlier: Tomorrow we leave upward, in АВС and our plan for 10 days will be the following. For the beginning we go to 6400 meters. There we spend two days of preparation, and then we climb on the North Col and go down again to ABC on 6400м. After rest, we again climb on the North Col and there we spend a night. From there we leave for acclimatization on 7500-7700 meters. And after that long, 10-day`s campaign we should go down in base camp. Approximately it will be May, 1-2.. In general everything goes normal, though some person already have gone home. Basically on family circumstances. Some on a state of health.
All others are healthy, our Sherpas work, they already have put a camp on the North Col.

Earlier:

We are sending you the latest info from our expedition on Everest from Tibet side. 7 Summits Club.
 
April 18 our team of 15 members returned to BC, 5200, from the second acclimatization hike when we reached 6400 - ABC.
April 16 we walked to North Col face - the ropes were already fixed and we saw a group of 4 climbers on the face.
In the evening of the same day we had a visit to our camp by two famous Kazakh climbers - Maxud Zhumaev and Vasilii Pivtsov.
They are going to climb Everest without oxygen. In June 2007 they are planning to climb K2. They already have climbed 10 out of 14 8-thousanders.
April 18 we returned to BC, where 4 our friends were awaiting us - guide Sergey Larin (Everest summitter 2003) with 2 members and guide Sergey Kofanov (Everest Summitter 2006). They left for ABC on April 19.
 
The rest of the team is having rest in BC, getting ready for the last acclimatization bid, playing ping-pong, taking sauna and driving a motobike which Alex Abramov, expedition leader, rented for the period of the expedition to be able to drive to Rongbuk and back.
 
Tomorrow we are living for ABC, planning not to descend to BC for the next 8-10 days, spending 6-7 nights in ABC, 3 nights on the North Col and making 1 acclimatization hike abouve 7500.
 
Best regards
 
Ludmila Korobeshko, Everest BC, 5200, Tibet

Earlier: Alex Abramov News from Everest Expedition of 7 Summis-Club 12.04.07

A lot of events. First, we have gone down from Intermediate camp, having spent a night on 5800м. We all are alive and healthy. Night has passed almost without any problem. Only one of yaks has lain near tent where Sergey Batura was slept. And Sergey was forced to try to get it away all night using a thermos, but at daybreak he has decided, that with yak is even warmer.

Second, when we have gone down in BC, we were met by doctor Andrey Selivanov, guide Sergey Kofanov and Armen Rshtuni. Sergey feels quite normally after his illness.

Third, well-known climbers from Kazakhstan Vasily Pivtsov and Maxud Jumaev came to us on a visit. They already have 10 eightthousanders without oxygen. Now they are going to climb Everest, also without oxygen and very quick (as soon as possible). And in June they already want to leave on К-2.

Fourthly, we have started to mark Day of Astronautics since morning, and then Birthday of our comrade Ilya Gruzdeva. He will gather our team to climb Everest next year. Now a tennis match between Kazakhs and Russians goes in sports tent.
About results - in the following message.

Ludmila Korobeshko from BC, Everest, Tibet, 5200 m

Earlier: Arrival in base camp.

Yesterday, April, 8 the main group (14 person + Lyudmila Korobeshko) has arrived to the Base Camp at height 5200 m. We were met by Sergey Kofanov, Alexander Bichenko, Andrey Selivanov, which here already about one week here. They had time to prepare all camp with the maximal comfort for our arrival. Here was also Alexander Abramov, he has arrived in BC day prior to us that to be convinced of readiness of camp.

In the evening we have sat behind dinner in honour of the official beginning of a sports stage of expedition. Before it we had time to put a special tent ("sports hall") with a tennis table inside and even have carried out some matches.

The first night on 5200 m was disturbing. The guide Sergey Kofanov unexpectedly fell severely ill. Early in the morning, doctor Andrey Selivanov has gone together with Sergey on a jeep in Xegatse, to the regional hospital. There is a suspicion on appendicitis though it is possible, that this simply strong food poisoning. His friend Armen Rshtuni accompany them. If it will be necessary he will stay with Sergey, and doctor Andrey Selivanov should return in BC. Today in the morning April, 9 Armenak Tigranian has left our expedition. To regret, he has fallen a victim to mountain illness. Anything dangerous. Soon he should arrive to Moscow healthy, though tired.

Other members of expedition feel like more or less normally: today since morning we have taken a walk down to Old Rongbuk. The day after tomorrow we leave up to 5800 m - Intermediate Camp - and there we spend a night. Then we shall go downwards and after rest we shall go on 6400 m – to АВС.

The list of participants of expedition:

- John Delaney, Ireland
- Maxim Shakirov, Russia
- Israfil Ashurly, Russia - Azerbaijan
- Andrey Zajtsev, Russia
- Andrey Ivanov, Russia
- Sergey Dashkevich, Russia
- Sergey Batura, Russia
- Hannah Shields, British
- William Hazelton Tyler III, USA
- Curt Myers, USA
- Dirk Feige, German
- Armenak Tigranian, Russia
- Dmitry Zjuz', Ukraine
- Armen Rshtuni, Russia
- Bruce Matthews, New Zealand
- Rafael Nagapetianz, Russia
- Alexander Kibalko, Russia

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

Guides:
- Sergey Kofanov, Russia
- Alexander Bichenko, Russia
- Sergey Larin, Russia
- Lyudmila Korobeshko, Russia

Doctor and base camp manager:
Andrey Selivanov
 

Everest 2007: Alexander Abramov and his 7 Summits Club expedition returns to Everest in 2007. Alex, unlike other low budget expeditions, brings a very large Sherpa team to the mountain. The expedition is expected to attempt the North side of Everest again. His Everest 2006 was heavily promoted by some as the the "$10000 expedition", but clients died....  Alex who works closely with the other big commercial expeditions has had mixed results on Everest with a large number of Summits but also deaths.  Alex by all accounts is a nice fellow... Stay tuned for Everest 2007...

Hundreds of other climbers are expected to attempt Everest again this year...

 

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