Tents (camp 1) North Col ©EverestNews.com
Update May 20th:
Friday, May 20, 2005 - From Camp
II to Camp III -
It's 15:00h in the afternoon,
Spain time. I have just talked with Merce. Together with the expedition,
they have taken a decision, make an attempt for the last time, because the bad
weather doesn't stop. So Merce and Albert have stayed in Base Camp and Xavi
has climbed with two Sherpas.
Now Xavy is in Camp III
(8,400 m), he is fine, after all they have installed the tents without the
need of oxygen. The weather is not the best, Agusti goes behind and is now in
Oriol is already in the
Chinese Base Camp with all the material.
At 24:00h, Xavi will attempt
to reach the SUMMIT. Wait for news. We wish them lots of luck and let's hope
the weather is good.
Update: they turned back again...
Update May 19th:
We did not advance yesterday and
today we haven't decided yet. The last weather forecasts that we could
compare don't coincide about the window of good weather for the 20 and 21,
tomorrow morning we will start our last attack to the summit of Everest. The
intention is to climb tomorrow morning to camp 2 and if the weather of the
next day is proper, we will climb to camp 3 to make the final attack to the
summit on the morning of the 21.
It has been more complicated
to prepare this attack than we thought, because we had already planned to go
down to Advanced Base Camp on the 20th, and the fact that it takes three days
to return has made us make intense negotiations to make yaks and transport be
adequate to our needs. We have seen that negotiating with the Chinese
authorities is not easy, especially when there is money in the middle.
Translated from Catalan by
Update May 18th: After the frustrated attempt because of bad
weather, the expedition will attempt again for the last time before going back
to Katmandu. They will leave from the camp on THURSDAY, May 19, with the
intention to reach the summit on SATURDAY, the 21st.
Update: The night in Camp 2 has been
extremely hard, the wind that started to blow hard on the last third of the
climb to Camp 2 made it very difficult for the planned installation of the
tents, ours and the Sherpas. Camp 2 showed a very terrible image by the last
hour of the afternoon, where besides us there was anyone else. The strong wind
blew all night and as you can imagine, there was little sleep. During the
first lights of the morning our hope, that the wind would diminish according
to the weather forecasts, had vanished after talking with the Sherpas if it
was ok to leave to Camp 3, and despite having everything ready we saw it was
not a good decision. That made us change all the strategy that we had planned
and after discarding our stay at 7,600 for one or two night, waiting for an
improvement for which we didn't have any guarantee, we decided to climb down
to Advanced Base Camp, tired, and why not say it, defeated because all the
plans based in weather data crashed. We clearly realized that a forecast is
just a forecast, especially in the Himalayas.
According to last hour news,
they plan to go to CAMP 2 on Thursday and attempt the summit during the
We'll keep you posted.
Translated form Catalan by
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