Our custom weather forecast shows no window for "normal
climbers" on the North side of Everest. Only very strong climbers would be
expected to be able to summit in these conditions. This forecast goes all
the way to June 4th. Yes, climbers have summited in high winds, and climbers
will probably summit this year in high winds. Climbers will also probably die
Clients: What is safe (wind speed) for a client? Expect that
to be debated highly if several get killed this year on the North side. These
conditions are highly NOT recommended for clients. Only ":very good" climbers
could possibly summit and then with a very high risk of lost of life.
There are dips down to 35 mph forecasted on the North, but
they are short periods, with the wind picking back up, There is no 35mph
period of wind period similar to the one earlier this year which resulted in
15 plus summits and one death.
The big commercial teams are holding back, most of the small
commercial teams and independents are making a run for it as we expected they
would... It is unclear how long some can stay...
The climbers who summited (or attempted to) the other night,
got hammered BAD. The climbers at high camp got hammered bad too.. This is
going to be a very hard year on Everest on the North side...
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