Mt. Everest 2005: Norwegian Men's expedition: Update

Update: Three men dressed in red are creeping over the edge at the top of the snowy field on their way to Camp 2.  Henrik and Vidar are looking like two Michelin men in their new large, quilted down-suits.  Together with Sherpa Tenzing they are reaching the magic target for the agreed height of 7550 metres.  “The Killinghill” is covered by a narrow margin. Especially the last 100 metres are horrible. The wind and the blizzard are increasing and we have to hurry to get down to the North cleft before it gets to ugly.  I almost managed a trip to our next camp at 7700 m. I wanted to, in the spirit of the Peace Corps, check if our tents were ready for the Ra-ra team, who possible will be the first up when the weather allows an attempt for the top. On our way down we are passing the place where Marius and Mattias (7350 m at a stretch, the discussion is tough!) reached a couple of days before us. Shortly we are staggering back into the North cleft to spend our second night in this fine, but too high camp. No appetite and lack of sleep is showing on whoever spend some nights up here.

The next day we wake up, marked by the rough treatment this height test exposed us to. Everybody is satisfied about getting as high as we did, and that we did beat our friends from the Ra-ra team.  Henrik is complaining about his breathing and that his lungs are hurting. We are melting some snow and are bravely trying to eat some cereal. The food is growing in our mouths, so we just have to give up. We are hurrying down the rappels and the hills to the glacier plateau under the wall up to the North cleft. Henrik is getting worse for each step down. We need to understand that The Peace Corps once again has been fired a warning shot. Petter, unfortunately, had to return after just a few hundred metres from the camp a few days ago, as we were on our way to Camp 1. We heard on the radio that he had returned to the Narvik BC, and that he wanted to go further down to get rid of the coughing that has been bothering him for the last 40 days.

After a night in Aktiv BC, we are starting on the trip down for our “last rest” in BC before trying to reach the top. It feels very good that we are walking this 24 km long moraine for the second last time. About one hour before the Intermediate camp, the snowy weather reaches us.  It is blowing and snowing rather madly.  After a lot of hassle we are able to find the Camp and get inside. After a couple of hours, hot tee and some pop corn we decide that Henrik and Vidar will stay in the Camp and Morten will continue further down on his own as soon as the wind drops. Just after this the wind starts again, so the rescue is fresh Yak footprint s down the moraine tops, which without footprints are a complete nightmare getting through.  The sun is breaking through again in the afternoon, and BC is reached in fresh snow and beautiful afternoon sun.  As usual it is just splendid to come “home” to your own tent down here.  In BC Jon, Henrik “Mr. Hollywood” and the photographer PYH are present. Jon and Henrik have been on a convalescent trip to Zangmu and are both feeling fit. PYH has a runny nose and would like to follow the Peace Corps to the nearest village tomorrow.

This morning all the others returned from a 3 day trip to the nearby village. Hot springs and nice food have done wonders with all of them.  We have been missing meat on our trip, and today the truth was discovered. The cooks have been serving meat daily to the Sherpas with, as we were having noodles, fried rice and vegetables. No wonder we were getting thinner!!!  Tonight we have been stuffing ourselves with yak meat, after Vidar taking control in the mess tent.  We are now promised better food in the future, and not a day too early!!

As mentioned, PYH and almost everyone from the Peace Corps are going to the rural district tomorrow. Eirik and Petter will once again walk towards ABC, to test their condition in the height.  Jon, Mattias and Marius are reading the weather reports closely, and are in principle ready to try for the top. If God allows them, they will be on their way in a couple of days. The Peace Corps will follow in a week, after Henrik hopefully are feeling better.

On behalf of The Peace Corps Morten

Updates

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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