May, 14. Expedition
of the " 7-Summits Club " plans climb the summit of Everest in any
case, not looking on weather and other reasons.
Today two Slovenes Маrко
and Victor, and also doctor Andrey Selivanov, have left upwards, after the
first group. The first group today has risen in АВС. Yesterday James
Wilde went quite slowly, coughed, there were suspicions, that it may be a
pneumonia. Today Andrey should examine James in the evening and make
medical conclusion. They should solve how to be farther: to go down in
base camp or to continue an ascent. James is a partner of Karo Ovasapian,
they are friends and go together. Tomorrow we plan an exit of the last
six person (Alexander Abramov, Dmitry Moskalev, Nathan Shneider, John
Christiana, Lorenzo Gariano and Robert Ulf).
Also tomorrow Noel and
Lynn leave, in 7 mornings. We shall see off them.
Wind very strong, both in
base camp, and in АВС.
Today, Sherpas have
climbed in the second camp, have brought oxygen, now there are 64
cylinders. 27 cylinders are in the last camp 8300, and 8 more cylinders
are on North Col. Now we want to be provided completely all for ABC camp.
We send tomorrow the next 4 cylinders of gas, on yaks. Also we lift more
products: hens, rams whom we recently have bought in Tashizong, we want to
lift there a pork leg. Everything - for the nearest two weeks.
Now the wind blows quite
strong and the forecast for the nearest 5-6 days unfavorable. Though the
wind gradually abates, I think, that somewhere to a full moon, to 23rd of
May, the wind will be still, and everyone will go upward. All expeditions
which now sit in АВС will start to climb.
Club to climb the summit of Everest in any case, not looking on weather
and other reasons. We shall be in area ABC and the high camps until there
will come good weather even if it will be in June. Expedition plans to
work down to a successful ascent, not looking on weather and formal terms
of expedition. If it is required, we shall be in base camp down to June.
The wounded leader of
expedition 7-Summits-club plans to climb Everest with his clients.
Alexander Abramov, the
leader of expedition in which 18 clients and 13 sherpas work now, plans to
climb with the clients on the top of Everest. We want to remind, that
one month ago, in middle of April, Alexander and his friend have
undergone to an attack of maoists. They have thrown a bomb in their
machine. It happened on road to border of Tibet. As a result of explosion
at Alexander appeared more than ten fine splinters in legs. Not wishing
to leave the team, Alexander has refused operation in Katmandu. He has
arrived to base camp to continue a management of the expedition. Because
of wound Alexander till now did not rise above АВС. But, in the near
future he plans to climb with a command on top of Everest.
"I should justify hopes
of the clients which have paid to me money. I shall make everything that
the maximum quantity of participants has reached the top. I am sure, that
my participation in an ascent will rise the spirit of a team. I have
experience of four expeditions, in the last year I was at top. And I hope,
that it will be possible to me to climb the top again. I already think
of the following expedition, 2006, already 4 clients have paid
participation in it".
Friends of Alexander,
his wife and three children try to convince him to refuse an ascent, ask
him to not go above АВС. Nevertheless, Alexander has decided to try this
year climb on top of Everest. He considers, that his state of health
will allow him to climb. Alexander said that his conditions are normal.
Only in the mornings, when he wakes up, there are spasms in his legs in
those places where there are splinters a little. But within day all comes
The chronicle May, 15.
Today, at 7 in the
morning, Noel and Lynn have left for Katmandu. Now the climbing team
consists of 18 person. 12 person are in АВС now, 6 more person go upwards
and will spend next night in the Middle Camp (Alexander Abramov, Dmitry
Moskalev, Nathan Shneider, John Christiana, Lorenzo Gariano and Robert
Tomorrow all of them
plan to rise upwards. After that, under our plan, the Middle Camp will be
removed. Tomorrow all Sherpas from АВС leave on North Col. The day after
tomorrow they plan to climb in camp-3, on 8300 meters, to supply
everything, that it is necessary for an ascent. After that we hope, that
everything will be ready. And in 2-3 days the team can atert the climb. We
shall go by two groups. The first will be under leadership of Nikolay
Cherny (9 members + 6 шерпов), the second - leader Abramov(also 9 members
+ 6). The weather is more - less normal now. It is clear, the strong wind
blows, but it should ceased gradually.
Sherpa Pasang Dorji
Sherpa Mingma Forche
Sherpa Pemba (Karo*James)
Mingma Gelu Sherpa
Nathaniel Raymond Schneider
Sherpa Lakcha (Noel*Lynne)
Sherpa Rengin (John)
Sherpa Nima Dorji (Nathan)
Sherpa Mingma Nurbu (Robert)
AlpIndustria Adventure team Project