The full Russian report complete and unedited,
please see the note at the end.
Update May 19th:
Today, tomorrow or the day
after tomorrow (all forecasts it is not exact information) the weather is
expected quite good. Quite good but only for Everest standard. Under the
forecast, the day after tomorrow, when the most part "members" from those
who has left now plans an ascent, speed of a wind will be about 50 kms per
hour. These are the best conditions on a route for last 2 months. It
seems, that small window has opened. 21st of May about 50 persons could
reach the summit. And some people will ascend it from the south, may be
more, than from the north.
Now two Slovenes Маrcо
and Victor, Vladimir Lande with his personal high-altitude porter stay in
camp of 7700 m.. They will spend the night and tomorrow are going to climb
in camp of 8300 m. Also today Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano will spend
the night on the North Col. Under the plan they should go on top May, 22.
The forecast for this day is bad, but there is hope, that bad weather will
move for 1 day.
Today 8 Sherpas have left
ABC to finish works of fixing ropes above the First step, maximum high as
possible. For our expedition the situation is quite good, especially for
the first part. They make an attempt to catch a window of weather duration
in 4 days. Yesterday the group of Sherpas has brought all necessary
equipment in the top camp. There are now 65 cylinders of oxygen on 8300m,
30 cylinders are in the second camp (7700m). In each camp there are 5-6
tents and complete sets of utensils, products, gas etc. Our Sherpas have
done huge work. Yesterday they have finished installation of last camp:
the road is open. But 22th of May the small window of weather will be
closed. The next window we expect only after May, 25. So terms of an
ascent for other group are planned on 25 – 30th of May.
AlpIndustria Adventure team Project
This reported is somewhat outdated: Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano has
descended to ABC.