Update: Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABС
Today, May, 27, the first team has started: 8 Members
and 7 Sherpas. Now, at 7 p.m., all 15 person have climbed the camp on the
North Col. So all goes under the plan. Tomorrow all of them should rise in
camp of 7700 meters where also they will overnight. Physical conditions of
members of a team are different, and it is possible, that someone will
finished climb on the Col. The second team (7 participants and 5 шерпов)
has decided to leave not tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow. A planned
day of an ascent, May, 31, the weather is predicted bad. Thus, the second
team plans to reach the summit on June, 1, when weather forecast will be
Update: Two groups are formed for
the final attempt.
Today, May, 26, the
weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one
second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease
of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27
the first our group will start and May, 28 the second group will start on
climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7
Sherpas, including Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second
group, in it - 7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas
from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters.
It will be made for secure of the second group.
Group 1: James Wilde,
Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan
Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.
Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev,
Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert
Vladimir Lande, who
participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members
are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in АВС, have
the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not
so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows,
that because of queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to
reach the top.
It is now hearing handbells.
That Yaks approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have
already started to go down from camp AВС. I think, that the nearest three
days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.
Norwegian expedition, and
also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the
purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .
Long stay at height
6500м, certainly, provided an bad effect on conditions of members.
Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an
end. It is certainly hard for an organism. I hope, that we could
overcome physical strengths, and moral - strong-willed spirit help us to
win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.
How many climbers are on
northern side of the Everest? Brice has told, that he has collected on
fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means, that 170 persons have handed
over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here.
So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest
there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May,
30-31. Plus hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest
point it will be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be
formed simply to be photographed.
The leader of the 7
Summits Club expedition: Alex Abramov.