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  Mt. Everest 2005: 7 Summits Club Summits Everest: more summits, but others still to come down....


 

Update: Alex Abramov by telephone from ABC: (unedited)

Later:17:30 local time.

Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o'clock in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha, they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At one o'clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700 meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly risen in camp of 7700 m. Now they begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height 8500м. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three person. It will be their third night at this height.

Earlier Update: Alex Abramov by telephone from ABC:

Today, June, 2, at 8:45 local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Larcha. Lorenzo Gariano is also near to top. Such information - on 9 o'clock in the morning local time. The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.

Update: Alex Abramov from the ABC camp: Today there was awful night. We, the big company, 10 persons, spent the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents that we do not leave, neither at one o'clock, nor per three ….. Today, when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10 cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made the strong-willed decision.  I, as former already at top, Натан and it(him) шерп Downwards. Yesterday Nathan  has received small frost-bitten of fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group, it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lapka Sherpa planning the fifth ascension. However she  also has not left. [Her brother is their sirdir, her other brother summited with group 1, etc...]

We started  downwards,  leaving  necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan  and his Sherpa,  have started to go downwards at 10 a.m..  

Weather forecast for tomorrow: the same as for today.  But now, to the evening, clouds have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join Summiters, has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov,

Nathaniel  Schneider and his Sherpa stay in АВС now. The first group left from АВС and, probably, all of them already are in base camp. Tomorrow in 7 mornings there should be a jeep. They have tickets to Moscow  for June, 4, for morning.  They could  appear in Moscow in 4-th evening. All, except for Nikolay Cherny who will help the leader to collect and pack am expedition equipment. Nikolay is now in "Middle Camp", he feels good.

Once again our congratulations him with remarkable success! We  have changed  our tickets for June, 10. And I hope, that  half-Moscow will come to meet and be pleased for him!

The leader of the 7 Summits Club expedition: Alex Abramov.

Previous Update

In seasons 2003 and 2004 Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.

"Looks like people trust us, - says Alexander Abramov (Alex),  the founder and permanent leader of Russian Adventure Team Everest Expeditions   - and this year the list of participants is practically ready before the New Year.

 

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