May 14 Everest BC
Well it’s that time of the Everest Expedition season again… everyone is
wondering what everyone else is going to do because in reality they’re
wondering what they themselves are going to do. We’re really no exception.
It’s time to plan the summit bid now that we are back in BC after our
‘vacation’ below. Everyone is of course anxious to get on with it yet the need
to balance our drive with weather forecasts is essential. There are a few
teams that have made the move out of BC and on up the mountain to see if they
can parlay the most optimistic of the forecasts into a successful summit bid.
Most of those are small teams. Much of the weather info indicates that the
winds will be too high over the next few days above the South Col. We wish
those pushing up the best of luck. Most teams are in BC planning on moving up
sometime over the next week. We are tentatively in that same boat.
The team is
doing well and everyone is quite healthy here at BC after the long rest down
low. We’re all caught up on our sleep, hydration, and mentally refreshed from
the warmth, flowers, trees and running water down below the tree line. Our
first rest day back here in BC it was the same M.O. Laundry, showers, reading,
visiting camps, and napping. I decided it was time for a haircut so I
consulted our resident barber/cook Gopal and he got a bit nervous. He
explained to me that Pemba Nuru was better than he at cutting hair these days.
Once I found Pemba he said that no, no- Mingma Tsering was the best barber in
camp. Mingma was close by and started to crack a nervous smile when Lhakpa
Sona enthusiastically said he’d do it. I was persuaded by his enthusiasm.
There were other team members waiting to see if they’d also get a trim but
tonight everyone still has the same head of hair as this morning. I think a
weed eater may have performed better. Lakpa Rita did a decent job of repairing
some of the damage.
We also got out and did some more practice for the fixed lines on the Lhotse
face. I think everyone can pass anchors at this point blindfolded and with
large mittens on. Tomorrow we’ll be getting everyone familiar with the oxygen
systems we’ll be using for the summit push. It’ll definitely make for good
At this point our very tentative plan will be to depart BC on the 17th. Stay
tuned as this very well may change day by day.
We are thinking of all of you back home- wherever that may be.
All the best,
Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave
Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent
team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge
Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude
and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14
mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a
makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine
Fit, and even lighter
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.