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Update from the three man expedition without oxygen (Climbers
Robert Goh, Lim Kim
Boon and Edwin Siew)
Update:
23 April: The team began their
second acclimatization cycle on 21 April, moving up to Camp 2 on a warm and
sunny day.
After resting a day at Camp
2, Robert and Edwin climbed to Camp 3, a gruelling 7-hour journey over hard,
blue ice. "It was much tougher than in 1998," said Robert, recalling his
previous Everest attempt. "That time, there were many groups before us, so
there were already steps cut into the ice. This time, we were one of the first
and the route was new."
Said Edwin: "With every step,
we had to make sure our crampons were biting into the ice, which can be very
slippery. Covering the ice was a thin layer of snow, which masked the
condition of the ice below. We had to be sure we were stepping firmly into the
ice and not just on soft snow."
The journey was made more
dangerous by the threat of falling serac. A falling piece of ice in fact hit
the head of Pemba Dorje, one of our Sherpas, who fortunately sustained only a
minor head injury, but serious enough to make him descend to base camp for
treatment.
After their successful ascent
to Camp 3, Edwin and Robert returned to Camp 2 for a day's rest. They are
confident in their plan to go up again on 25 April to sleep in Camp 3 without
oxygen, to prepare for their eventual no-oxygen summit attempt.
Kim Boon meanwhile is
suffering from a mild case of AMS. After ascending from Camp 2 to the start of
the Lhotse Face, he was forced to turn around and is descending to Base Camp
to recover. Once he is well, he will decide on an alternative acclimatization
cycle in preparation for the summit bid.
Dispatches
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