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Update:
Hello all of you Expeadicts. I
am going to try to be brief, because Endika has to go to Salou this weekend,
and he is waiting for the chronicle to go (please not what he does for us).
Today was a special day for
our friends Waldemar and Irivan, because they were going to climb to CIV. But
they didn't see it feasible in the morning, the meteo we gave them yesterday
via the walkie-talkie was not very good, and they didn't have much strength as
the first time they went to CIII, so they decided to use this attempt for
acclimatization enhancement and to go down to BC to wait with us for the next
window, which is going to the good one, the true one, the big one, the "great
window", all that and much more...
We were a little sad because
we had a lot of illusion on this attack made by our teammates, it was like the
confirmation that we could make it to the summit after them, but besides,
after watching them come down so happy and convinced of the next attack, we
have cheered them up, and we see ourselves, the five of us in the summit,
shooting the group picture which we have dreamt about for more than a month...
Although it looks like a
contradiction, the descend of Waldemar and Irivan lifted our spirits...
Yesterday we were a little pessimistic, checking the date of the flight back
to Spain, watching our possibilities of dates for the summit, how hard it
would be to go down to BC, to uninstall everything, prepare the barrels, take
a chopper (we won't catch one if we have to walk to Lukla), get to Katmandu,
prepare the air cargo, pick up everything in Katmandu and get on time for the
flight to Spain...
But today is a different day,
and we see things from a more positive angle: tomorrow a couple of groups are
going to attempt the summit, and by the North Face our friend Xavi from
Esplugues and some other group... This summit can move things a lot in Base
Camp, and we are the first to be moved...
For out part, some weather
forecasts are saying that the monsoon is starting to take form... No, don't
panic! It looks that, it takes a few days since it starts to take form until
it moves north, and in those days the "jet" moves, the one carrying so much
wind here because of the raise of the pressure in the south... Heck, I am
getting so techie.
In summary, the monsoon takes
form, the pressure raises in the south, this moves the jet and the lower
pressures (bad weather rolls), and gives three or four days of stability in
the zone...
So we are going to wait, we
hope we don't wait too much... Easy, Expeadicts, we are being patient and at
the end there has to be a reward. Tomorrow will be another day, we will be
very motivated, and we will start to check the meteo as last week, when we
devoured more megabytes of meteo than what we did of the visitor book.
Now we have to leave you, you
know, Endika's butt is hanging from the edge of his seat, wanting to place it
in his new Viano Marco Polo (he bought it for something, heck), and he is
forcing us with the deadlines... we are providers under pressure by the
client... by the Expeadict clients, but today we are going to be on time...
you will have your daily dose of chronicle!
By the way, Haya says he just
came from the other Spanish expedition, that the president of the Community of
Aragon, Marcelino Iglesias, has just sent us regards, and he ask for
prudence... Of course we will have prudence!
He tells us that in Spain
there are a lot of people updated about the situation this year in the
Himalayas. Are you, Expeadicts? It looks like the weather in all the region
is not favorable, and that there are some eight-thousands that won't have
ascents this year. In others which have a lot of visits, there are less than
ten summits, and some are very dangerous. In Manaslu, for example, an
avalanche swept CII, and the members of the expedition had to quit because
they lost materials...
This only reminds us the
usual: we are here in an environment that is greater than us and that we will
only reach the summit if the mountain decides to accept us and leaves us a
hole to ascend...
We have it clear, and the
Expeadicts too, so we still have all the spirit of the world...
Thanks, Expeadicts!
Translated from Spanish by
Jorge Rivera
Dispatches
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2009 has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
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See more here. |
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