Update: The climbers have just
called from CIV, with gasps because of the lack of oxygen at 8,000m. They
decided to leave for the summit, they will start walking in 1 hour
approximately (22h Nepal). The wind hasn't receded so it may be possible they
have to come back soon, anyway they will climb without looking down and if
they have to turn around they will do it without looking at what is left
behind. The Brazilians and an American expedition that has been in CIV since
yesterday will also leave upwards
Update: After 20 minutes of
ascent, David decides to turn around because of the cold. He is already back
in CIV. He has the satellite phone, and Jorge and Haya have gone up with the
walkie talkies. They have very little battery left, so please don't call so
that they can use it in case of need. He is fine and is resting in CIV. All
the English bottles they had failed except for 4 which Jorge and Haya took up.
Update: The blizzard is
harder and the 4 bottles of English oxygen have failed, so Jorge has decided
to go back to CIV, and Haya also did it later. Now the 3 of them are in CIV
sheltered from the blizzards without problems. It is forecasted that no
climber will get to the summit of Everest with these conditions. They will
spend the night in CIV.
The climbers are back in CIII,
once they unmounted CIV and CIII they want to go down to CII to spend the
night. They are well physically. They don't know much about the Brazilians,
they are still up.
They are happy because at
least they tried.
The plan after sleeping in
CII is to go down tomorrow to sleep in BC and after 3 days of trekking, take
the plane from Luckla to Katmandu. It looks like the British will refund the
money of the failed oxygen bottles
Jorge, David and Haya are in Camp II They
plan to climb to Camp III tomorrow morning, Tuesday, May 31, on Wednesday,
June 1 climb to CIV and on Tuesday, June 2 reach the summit.
It was very hard for us
to get to CII yesterday, it took us 9 hours. The 20 days or more without
climbing beyond BC, are evident. We have lost some acclimatization and the
fitness has also fallen because of the lack of activity. David was a little
better than Jorge and Haya on the way up.
We will stay all day in
CII as we planned, trying to recover that acclimatization partly lost to get
our bodies gradually used to the physical effort required to climb and
We slept 5 in the same
tent in CII (3 of us and the 2 Brazilians) and we tried to mount a kind of
advanced BC where we play our dice games and we try to drink and eat
everything possible. The truth is that at this altitude we don't accept food
as in BC and it is a real effort to get something solid in our mouths, but we
force ourselves because we know it is necessary. At least hydration is being
done very good and we have drunk more than 2 litters of water each one in
afternoon of dice.
We got really good news
from CIV, our friend Jesús Calleja, from Leon, has reached the summit this
early morning and he is resting in CIV to try to go down to BC tomorrow in one
try. We have spoken to him through the satellite phone. He told us that he
was feeling very good during the whole ascent since he left BC. With him was
Willie Benegas, an Argentinean mountain guide of whom we told you days ago.
He was the one in charge to open the Hillary step.
The trail is stupendous
for us, because there is an open trail up to the summit and it is rigged with
fixed lines up to the south summit and the Hillary step.
The meteo, we better
not mention it because it is all so contradictory that we don't know if we
should trust it. It looks like the day we chose (June 2) in which winds
looked under 30 Km/h have changed to 60 Km/h. we hope that as we get closer
to the date they will recede.
From tomorrow we will
only carry the voice phone and the data phone will be left at CII. So from
tomorrow we will tell the chronicle to Endika and he will transcribe it. The
pictures will be taken from other publications and web sites, but when we are
back to CII, we will send all the audiovisual material we can in take in these
days of altitude.
Tomorrow we will try to
climb to CIII and we have set our alarm clock to 5 in the morning.
We want to close
today's chronicle with a phrase by Irivan, one of the Brazilians, we like it
because it lifts our spirits in the moments of exhaustion: "If you give one
more step, you are not in the same place anymore". We hope to write tomorrow
from CIII. Don't fail us, Expeadicts.
Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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