Base Camp, May
9: Last May 5th, Iván Vallejo and his teammates of the expedition
(Italy, Spain and Austria), reached 7,800 m of altitude as part of the first
attempt to reach the summit of the seventh highest mountain in the world, of
8,167m, in the Himalayas. The main goal of this last approach to Dhaulagiri,
by Vallejo, was to finish his acclimatization process and, if the conditions
were good, to make a swift attempt to the summit. The team was following the
trail opened by a Korean team, which was supposed to make the summit the
The early morning of the
ascent was completely clear, having always besides the impressive shadow of
Annapurna (8,091 m), the next goal of the expedition, by the middle of May.
The temperature, normal for these altitudes, was between minus 19 and minus 15
Celsius, with no wind. At 10 in the morning, at 7,800 m they found out that
the trail of the Korean team would not lead them to the main summit of
Dhaulagiri; actually the Korean team had not reached it. So they should go
back one part and cross a long corridor to take the right direction in the
middle of very loose snow, it had snowed the eight previous days, making the
risk of avalanche bigger. The climbers decided to go down to Base Camp, where
Vallejo arrived at 8 in the evening, after 10 uninterrupted hours of descent.
After recovering strength and
hydrate, the climbers are in good conditions and in a few hours they will make
another attempt, installing two high altitude camps: CI at 6,800, where they
will be on Tuesday; CII at 7,300, where they will spend the night on Wednesday
and, in the early morning of Thursday they will climb to the main summit of
Dhaulagiri. The attack team of Ivan Vallejo is made in this occasion by Iñaki
Ochoa from Spain and Cristian Stangl from Austria. The Italian group is ahead
one day, but Vallejo decided to wait until the weather forecasts showed an
improvement in the wind, very strong in the superior part close to the summit.
The Korean group abandoned the mountain.
Translated from Spanish by