57th day of the 10 Years of
Brazil on Everest Expedition
Base Camp (5,400m)
The weather here on Everest
is the weirdest, yesterday we were excited to make our summit attack on the
23rd, full moon. The weather forecast said 100 Km/h winds and 17% of humidity
on the summit, but today, the new forecast, raises humidity a little to 23%,
and warns of 100 Km/h winds for the full moon day.
Well, we radically changed
our plan and we are waiting for a new forecast that will come from Spain
tonight at 21 hours to take the definitive final decision. This forecast we
get from a Spanish weatherman costs 50 dollars each, but it is extremely
reliable. The cost of these forecasts is being split with our Spanish friends
from Valencia, Haya, Jorge and David, we decided to join efforts with them and
our enthusiasm is great to get together to the top of Everest.
The weather in the next days
is not so bad, but is not so good. The wind that this morning is blowing at
more than 100 Km/h in superior altitudes is going to diminish considerably in
intensity, even getting below 10 Km/h on Thursday, but humidity is going to
increase a lot, even with the snow forecasts above 8 thousand meters.
We met here in base camp a
while ago with several climbers, the major discussion was to climb Everest
with little wind and big risks of snowfalls, or climb Everest in a dryer
environment, but with stronger winds. Opinions vary, I prefer a thousand
times to climb with the risk of having some snow on my head instead of facing
I remember very well climbing
Everest in 1995, the day that Mozart and I reached the summit, May 14, full
moon, there was hardly any wind, and there was a big and pretty sea of clouds
around 7,500m, which means that below our altitude it could be snowing and
above there would be a blue sky with a nice temperature, thanks to the strong
Well, the problem is that May
is coming to an end, and in theory, the climbing license is due in June 1st
for most of the expeditions that are around here. Those who would like to
have a chance to get to the top of Everest this year have to be ready to face
more wind or snow than they would like.
In today's picture one of the
moments of our sojourn to Lobuche, where we spent the weekend. Haya, our
Spanish friend, shot the picture, you can see Irivan and me in there, coming
back to base camp, with beautiful Pumori (7,165m) in the background.
A big hug,
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