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Gasherbrum I:
Some background and History
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Gasherbrum
in local language means "Shining
Wall". There are six Gasherbrum Peaks.
Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak (8068
meters/26,470ft), is the highest peak among
them. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne
made first attempt in 1936, but they could not
climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters.
However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by
Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum
I. |
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Gasherbrum I
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Schoening
and Kaufman were first to reach the summit. The
approach route to Basecamp starts from Skardu through
Shigar Valley and approach trek starts from Askole
through Baltoro glacier.
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"Hidden
Peak or Gasherbrum I (8068 m)"
The 11th highest mountain of the world. |
History
of the Hidden Peak
1889-1929:
The Gasherbrum-group is surveyed and
photographed by Britains and Italians. The
British explorer M. Conway introduced the
names 'Hidden Peak' and Gasherbrum II.
1934:
A big international expedition, organized by
the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores both
peaks. Two climbers get to a height of 6300
meters.
1936:
A French expedition gets to 6900 meters.
1958:
An American expedition, headed by Clinch
and Schoening, climbs the summit for the
very first time. On the way crossing the
south spur, they use short ski and snow
shoes. Pete Schoening and Andrew Kauffman get the
summit on July 4th
1958.
As a 2-man-expedition with only twelve
sherpas to the base camp, R. Messner and P.
Habeler get to the summit on a new route
(northwest route)(2nd. ascent). One day
later, they are followed by three Austrians
on the same route (3rd. ascent).
1977:
The fourth successful ascent to the Hidden
Peak by two Yugoslavians, again on a new
route. D. Bregar remains missing.
1980:
A French expedition is successful with the
5th ascent and pass the south ridge for the
first time.
1981: Japanese have the 6th successful ascent.
1982:
A German expedition headed by G. Sturm climbs
the Hidden Peak. G. Sturm, M. Dacher and S.
Hupfauer get via a new route in the north
face to the highest point. In the same year,
the first woman gets to the summit.
Moreover, there is the first ski descent
from the top of an 8000 meter peak.
1983:
Teams from Switzerland, Poland and Spain are
successful, partially on new routes.
For Gasherbrum I
Expeditions and News see here.
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