Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter Everest 2005: Deep and the forecast is for high winds

A message from some of the Mallory and Irvine Climbers of 2005

If we seem "deep" lately, these are our lives on this earth we are talking about. In a few days the herd of climbers from all the expeditions, commercial and independent, will head up the mountain. Some climbers are on the mountain having never put crampons on before this spring. Should we talk ethics? This is going to cause a very dangerous situation here. The forecast until early June is horrible. They missed the windows. The first window being late April, early June, which you are not going to hear many talk about because they all cut their trips too short. (Long=more $$$!) Too many climbers, long waits, slow climbers and people all over the place hammered spells trouble. While we are going to try to stay away from the herd, we must cross its path a few times. Maybe we should descend the Great couloir too, you say? It might be safer!!! At least one of us, plans too! Ok, now you do know more... We don't think anyone will be following us this year!

If the weather does not change and all these climbers head up, there could be big problems on the North side... Yes, we have considered pulling out. For now we wait. We like our fingers and toes and would like to keep them.

We return to Mount Everest in search of an answer.

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