“Gasherbrum 2: summits galore!
Haegens summited G2 this morning at 12.40 local time. The fine weather is
holding very well. Other summiteers include Dutchmen Reinier Zuidhoff and
Folkert Bloembergen, a Basque team, a Korean team, and probably quite a few
others. Frits estimates there may be over twenty succesful summits today. Only
the Dutch and the Koreans launched their summit bid from Camp 4, the others are
all coming from C3. Congratulations and best of luck to all the summiteers and
fingers crossed for a safe descent!
Rose Janssen (Basecamp Holland)”
11.20 am G2 time (= some 30 mins ago):
and Court Hagens are nearing the 8000-metre mark on Gasherbrum 2! Reinier and
Folkert, both from another Dutch team, are climbing with them. They are
expecting to summit within the hour! The weather is picture perfect: sunny and
hot, no wind, and they are climbing above the clouds. A third member from the
other Dutch team, Jelle, decided to turn back at around 7800 metres with eye
problems. His condition has already ameliorated.”
guys mentioned a Korean team in C4, I assume they are also on their way.
Janssen (Base camp Holland)
Just got a
call from Frits again (noon G2-time). They are on their way to BC and descending
the ice fall through 2 feet of fresh snow, together with 2 Polish guys, Richard
(Ryszard?) and Mark. There is no wind there, but it’s very stormy at higher
altitudes. Richard and Mark confirmed that the Serbians were in their C1
yesterday (Thursday) morning, with at least one HAP. They should be descending
towards BC as well.
called again yesterday afternoon (early Tuesday morning in the US that is) to
tell me that the wind was already too strong to their taste in C4 (7350 metres)
and that they were NOT going to risk frostbite Or being blown away to China) by
trying to summit that night (Wed 12 July). I informed them about the weather
alarm that was on EverestNews and Frits confirmed that that was actually
happening! So as we speak (write, which is GMT + 2 i.e. 5.40 am + 2 = 7.40 am on
July 12th) they are descending to Base Camp to wait out the storms.
Base Camp Holland
This is Dutch Gasherbrum I and II Base Camp Holland with an update on the
Frits and Court are currently in Camp 3 at 6900 metres, taking some rest. Their
plan is to continue to Camp 4 later this morning, and have a short night there.
Their summit bid on Gasherbrum II would then start at midnight local time, so on
Wednesday morning July 12. The HAP that was accompanying them has fallen a bit
ill, and will probably not continue to C4.
There is some wind higher up the mountain. They are aware of the bad weather
coming in and maxing out on Thursday and Friday, so they are not sure it is
still safe to summit. They’ll just have to stick their nose in it and find out!
Base Camp Holland
Dutch Gasherbrum I and II Expedition
Dutchmen Court Haegens and Everest summitteer Frits Vrijlandt are attempting to
do a Karakoram double-header this summer. They intend to climb Gasherbrum 2 with
the assistance of two High Altitude Porters, and, if conditions allow it, Hidden
Peak in alpine style. Frits is also leader of an international group of
climbers, that are all attempting one or two of the Gasherbrums this season.
Their first success was accomplished earlier this week, when Argentinian team
members Dario Bracali and Juan Pablo Terrado summited Gasherbrum @ on the 50th
anniversary of the first ascent, on July 7th.
Updates as soon as I get them from the mountain!
Court is below