We had not gone beyond Camp 1 (6,000m)
when the bad weather came, we were stuck one whole week at Base Camp (5,100m).
The forecast said it would be interesting to attempt the summit attack during
the weekend. Our strategy was clear, we would not do a “see-saw”; that means,
to climb high and sleep below. We would always climb to the higher altitude
camps, almost in alpine style (carrying everything we needed), and we would
not go down until we would get the summit or at least, a summit attempt.
We got into an infernal glacier, the
crevasses were getting wider and wider, we reached Camp 1 by the plateau. We
were here for two days, the second day with bad weather. At the third day,
with bad weather and the backpacks full of food, gas, high altitude materials,
high altitude tents…; we climbed, with the help of the fixed lines, by endless
and very steep slopes up to Camp 2 (6,500m). With the snow on our faces we
installed the tent. We rested, hydrated and recovered to climb the next day
to Camp 3. At day break we saw that the sky was cloudy and it was still
snowing. We decided to wait one more day at Camp 2. It was the same day when
Lina climbed and came down from Camp 3 without finding her tent. The wind of
the previous week had blown away her tent and all her material. She decided
to go down to Base Camp and recover from the effort and to look for high
altitude materials for the summit approach.
On Friday morning it was clear at
daybreak, I talk to Kake to make him climb to Camp 3. We had breakfast,
picked up our things and left for Camp 3. At the beginning of a vertical
wall, Kake decided to quit, the cold in his fingers doesn’t let him continue.
The bad moments of Aconcagua come to his head, when we suffered frostbite in
the big toe of his right foot. We said goodbye with a big hug and with tears
in our eyes. He went down to Base Camp and I continued solo towards Camp 3.
I join Jorge, who climbed the previous day. He has a tent, he prepares food
and water so that I would hydrate. Both of us were ready to attack the summit
that same night.
The alarm clock rings
at eleven in the evening. We prep up, have breakfast and we leave at midnight
from the tent to start our adventure to the summit of G II. Jorge was ahead
and I was advancing behind and slow. We started on a very long slope. Then we
got into the spur of mixed rocks, there are fixed lines. The stones fall from
above. A little later, Jorge says he quits, he lost his piolet. I was there
alone, but I was confident that it would be my day. I
continued climbing alone. At
daybreak, I reached Camp 4 (7,500m). Then I passed by the Sojourn, which I
found very long. Little by little I passed the Breach of rocks and I went to
the Chinese Col, I was at 7,800m of altitude. At that moment I was facing the
summit slope. The sun was severe. I walked for several hours until I reached
the last fixed lines. I was very close. First a rope, then another, one more
and then I reached the summit ridge. I sat on it. The summit was in the
background, and under my left foot Pakistan and under my right foot China. I
went to the Chinese side, I walked slow but sure by the ridge and finally,
after 13:30 hours I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, I was at 8,035 meters
of altitude. The Córdoba 8000 Project, Everest 2007 had one more success.
Andalucía, Córdoba and Cabra had another summit. It was the moment to
remember of the institutions, friends, family and the one I love.
Translated by Jorge Rivera
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