I am Ghulom Hussein Nazar a
ski and climbing instructor from north of Tehran - Iran. I climb Cheprot
Peak 6100m in Naltar - Pakistan in 2003 solo, Peak Lenin 7134m - solo in 7
days in 2004, and Peak Korjensfsky 7105m -Tajikistan, solo in 6 days in
I climb Marble Wall 6400m,
Mt. Ararat - 5200m, Kilinmanjaro 5985m, Kazbeck 5100m all with group.
The brief note from Hussein
Nazar Ghulom Broad Peak Expedition diary - 2007.
On June 21 the Expedition
reach the base camp of Broad Peak, the expedition is led by Anna from
Poland. This expedition includes One Iranian Mr. Hussain (me), One
Georgian Gia and Four Polish.
On 22 June the expedition
rest and establish the base camp.
My solo climb start's
On 23 I leave for Camp 1 -
On 24 I leave for Camp 2 -
6400m and had a day rest at camp 2.
On 26 I leave for Camp 3 -
7200m and set my camp there.
On 27 I try to make summit
bid starting at 3am from Camp 3. after crossing the saddle I reach an
altitude of 8000m at 11: 41 hours. when the weather start changing with
low visibility. I decided to descend and at 4:40 pm he reach back to camp
3, where I found my tent barrier in snow. thought not a good idea to sleep
at camp 3, so I decided to descend further down to camp 2 and I reach camp
2 at 7:35 pm and sleep in HP Hussain Sadpara tent (Hussain is Kronther HP
with 4 other HP's hire for bring the dead body down from Broad Peak).
On 28 June I sleep in Camp
2, my food stock is finishing, On 29 two Italian Angel and Rubi (sorry if
I not pronouncing the right names spelling) reach camp 2, I and two
Italian sleeping 29 June at camp 2 waiting for good weather. But weather
start getting worst with strong winds and snow, so all 3 decided to
descend down and starting the descend at 8:30 am for the base camp on 30th
June and reach back at Base Camp at 2pm.
Until 4th July I am having
rest at base camp and on 5th July I started descending down for Askole
Village and reach Askole on 7th of July and took the jeep next day to
Skardu, where with the help of Jasmine Tours staff I manage to get a
flight for 9th of July for Islamabad.
Again with the help of
Jasmine Tours staff, I manage to change my flight from 18 July to 11 July
from Lahore to Iran. I am flying back to Iran early morning from Lahore on
This is my second trip to
Pakistan and first exposure to Karakoram 8000m peaks of Pakistan.