13/7/2007 - BC (12.00 AM - LT) It is high-noon here and
I am looking at Broad Peak wrapped in clouds. The wind is very strong. Ten
minutes ago I have heard Pedja Zagorac; our climbers are in C2 so getting
down was continued. I suppose that all of them will be in BC before night. I
was talking with them last night; they are happy and tired. They were 22
hours without sleeping. I certainly know that Italian, Koreans and
Germans climbed to Broad Peak too. M. Erdeljan, leader of expedition
14/7/2007 - BC: All our climbers from Serbia and Pakistan are
safe, sane and with us. Coming back from C3 lasted to the midnight 13/14th
of July bat everything is good if the end is good. Yesterday, last night and
in this moment it is snow in whole mountain. in many different camps there
are many climbers we are preoccupied about them. but we are powerless to
help them. We are well and safe. Pakistan's climbers Hasan and Sadik wewrw
with us on the top.
Salute from BC. Iso Planic
12/7/2007 – BC, 4.00 pm (LT)
At 2.00 pm (LT) our climbers were on the top of Broad Peak!
There are Iso Planic, Dren Mandic and two of carriers Sadik
and Hasan. I have heard them very bad because of wind which was 100 km/h on
the top. Pedja was not with them I will try to find details later.
In this moment Iso, Dren, Sadik and Hasan are on 7.700 m and
they will be in C3 for 2-3 hours. M. Erdeljan
10/07/2007 – BC (12.00 am LT)
Vlado and Pedja with high
carriers are near C2 and very soon they will accompany to Iso and Dren. Our
boys in C2 had problems with their tents because of snow and ice. There are
many of expeditions who were start up to the mountain (Italians, Spanians,
Germans and the others). We hope that all of us can override the snow near
peak much easier if we are together. We are well. Best regards, Milivoj.
09/07/2007 – BC (08.00 pm)
Sky is clear and it is not so
cold. Iso and Dren came to C2 after 8 hours of climbing. Tomorrow early in the
morning Vlado and Pedja will start up with carriears and remnant of equipage.
We hope some climbers from others expeditions will start with them so it will
be much easier to override snow from C3 and peak. Best regards to all.
09/07/2007- BC (6.00 am)
After clear and cold night
early in the morning Iso and Dren started up from BC to the peak. They were
first and after them started and the others (circa 10 climbers from different
expeditions) . Pedja and Vlado will start up tomorrow.
Forecast for next 3-4 days is
good, usefully for climbing, same in every of teams here.
It is sunny and warm here in
BC. It is our third attempt to summit the peak. We pray that this time will be
successful. Best regards, Milivoj and Pedja.
08/07/2007 /- BC (8.00 pm -
Snow was stopped, it is
partially clear, N-wind and -10° C. We are waiting forecast for next days. We
hope that will be 3-4 good days at least. Best regards, Iso.
08/07/2007 – BC (6.00 am -
It was strong wind and snow
all the night. Almost we are snowbound here in the camp. All of expeditions
are in their tents. As we have heard weather in all of Karakorum is very bad.
On G-I is C1 only. Nanga Parbat is the same. Nobody summits K-2 this season.
There are overflows in south of Pakistan… In one word – it is awfully.
However - we are waiting.
07/07/2007 – BC
All of us are in BC waiting
favorably weather. Today we will try to make some agreement for climbing
together on Monday morning. Forecast is: The window will be open to Wednesday.
We’ll try to use it together. On 7300-7700 m snow is about 4 feet.
Best regards, Iso Planic
06/07/2007 / BC
It was snow during las night.
Weather is cloudly on 6.000-7.000 m. BC is full of expeditions. We are
discussing with the others climbed icy rocks around. Meantime we are
negotiating collective summit if - and when - the Weather and Mountain allow
We are well and sane. Milivoj
Update: Broad Peak 2007. Update
All members of our expedition are in BC, they are well and
ready for climbing.
It is sunny day here. New expeditions are arriving every
day. Anybody is not in the mountain over C2. Here in BC nobody hasn’t forecast
or nobody will not to share it. Owing to Everestnews.com we have it.
Best wishes, Iso Planic, climber
It is rainy and cold here in BC. In C2 (6200 m) is snowy and
climbers have to come back. Nothing of climbing this week. We have to wait for
now. It is anyone in the mountain.
At 12.00 Am (LT) all of our climbers (there are 4 of them)
arrived in C2 without problems. They will start to C3 tomorrow early in the
morning. It is the plane. But if they make agreement with the others (Russian,
German…) they will have some rest in C2. Russian climbers tried to summit peak
twice without results. All of high-camps are ready and all of equipment are
M. Erdeljan, leader of expedition
Earlier Update: BC: Thanks to Hanif and our friends in Serbia we got
forecast which anticipate good weather. Climbers started to C-1. They will
tray to summit Broad Peak in next few days. All of us are OK and ready for
next labors. We hope and pray for good will of Mountain’s Mother to allow us
to our goal.
22.06.2007. – BC: C-2 was installed, ropes,
tents and equipment are there. Our boys just came back in BC.
Many expeditions arrived here; they are ready for peaks around.
We have contacts with some of them to preparing planes for next year and
climbing K-2. Still we have problems with internet connection so we have
problems with weather forecast too. All of us are well and ready for climbing.
Earlier: After 4 days snow fall is
stopped. Temperature is growing up and we hope proceed to the peak very soon.
Luckily, new dynamo is here,
batteries are charging and we will be ready to connect to Internet.
18. 06.2007. - BC
Still three days BC was
chained with snow. We are practicing on ice-vertical around. Some people from
Serbia were in K2-Camp first time in history – we were there. It was cloudy
unfortunately and we could not seen K2 peak.
All of us are well, but we
still have problems with dynamo.
15. 06. 2007. – BC (5000 m)
We were installed first 200 m
ropes, two tents and some of equipment yesterday.
There are 25 expeditions
which were preparing for upsurge. It is nearly rumple-crumple J here.
All of us are well viewing
Dynamo doesn’t work and we
will be in problems with batteries if some doesn’t change soon.
Earlier: 08.06.2007. KUBURCE 3930
meters: After six hours of marching we arrived in Kuburze. Here is beautifull.
Pedja, Rash and Dren can see Paiu, Tringo Tower and Cathedral Gope first time.
All peaks as a needle, locally with ice, all over 5 or 6 thousand meters.
All climbers are well. One of
carriers was ill unfortunately and we have to return him. His pack have to
allocate to the others. Tomorrow we will go on to Urdukus.
Earlier: Paiu is opposite Baltoro
glacier. All members of expedition are OK.
With us are 120 carriers now.
Lesser carriers than last year mean shorter stay in mountain. Something of
equipment and food will be sneak afterwards.
It is not pause in the
afternoon because we are going in short acclimatization tour at peaks in
Best regards to all.Milivoj
Erdeljan, leader of expedition
YOLA 3100 meters:
Fortunately, today we had dry
weather alter the rainy night. Light tracking from Ascole (3000 m) to the
point where we are now, beautiful valley Biaho Lungme where almost 200
carriers around us are. We are surrounded with peaks sharp as needle, calling
us to them. After short break we have to go to the acclimation.
In the meantime we spend tree
days in Scardu occupied with examining the equipment, which had stayed last
year in barrels and we fortunately find it in excellent shape.
The flight from Islamabad to
Scardu, above the Karakorum Mountain, took 40 minutes, but it was shaky as in
the down-town bus. Nanga Parbat was under and million of peaks high around
7000m. We checked also medical and emergency equipment, medical oxygen with
masks and connection with helicopter base and dispensary.
This year we will climb the
mountain pick without additional oxygen, but in Base camp (BC) we must have
oxygen flaks, just in case.
We check our communication
lines with Serbia using satellite phone. All is working fine, for now! Most
important - all of us without stomach problems! We are healthy. These new
fellows are tiptop, real men for right thing.
In Ascole we spend a whole
day in packing equipment for the carriers, up to 22 kg each. There are a lot
of things to carry!
Ascole it is a village like
the one from ancient history, not paying attention on anybody else, includes
these tourists, adventurers and us, mountaineers. They don’t want to change.
These people have they own life and their rhythm. And they are satisfied.
Tomorrow we are going to next
camp – Paiu, at nearness of Baltro glacier and so on for next seven day until
we reach BC.
Pedja is getting along with
us, Vojvodinians. He would be great “Lala” one day (Lala means tulip; it is
nick for all of people from Vojvodina). Regards.
PS. We were proud to accept
offer Mountaineering Union of Pakistan.
This year is 50th jubilee of
first summit Broad Peak and two mountaineers from Pakistan (Hasan and Sadik
Satpar) join to our expedition, to climb the peak with us.
Because of that our
expedition now is called “Serbia-Pakistan joint Broad Peak expedition 2007”
So, now are with us two, as
all seams, great mountaineers and there presence will be very useful to us in
everyday communication with our additional staff and carriers.
Earlier: 03.06.2007.We arrived in Scardu. Yesterday we checked all of
equipment, today we are measuring it and packing it in barrels for carriers. Tomorrow we will terminate all of
preparations and day after tomorrow we will start to Ascole. Best regards to all.
We assembled missing baggage.
All administrative pursuits are accomplished
(Ministry, Military, Mountaineering commitee).
Food was bought, gear too. We packed all and
transport it to Scardu with cargo.
Tomorrow we will fly to Scardu. Civilization goodbye!
All of us are well
VOJVODINEAN EXPEDITION “BROAD PEAK 2007” - MEMBERS
5.9.1965. Member of RMC “Spartak”, Subotica.
Born 21.9.1964. Member of MS
“Zanatlija”, Novi Sad.
(Kawkaz-Russia) 1989; Ararat (Turkey) 2001; Uhuru peak
(Kili-manjaro-Tanzania) 2002; Barunce (Himalaya-Ne-pal) 2003; Shisha
Pangma (Himalaya-China) 2004; Mount Everest (Himala-ya-China) 2005;
Gasher-brum 1&2 (Karakorum-Pakistan) 2006;
MSS “Medicinar”, Novi Sad.
Member of MSS “Poštar”, Belgrade
Member of RMC “Spartak”,
28. 5. 07.
Start from Belgrade
(21,30 h, local time);
29. 5. 07.
- 22,15 h);
30. 5. 07.
31. 5. 07.
1. 6. 07.
Chilas (480 km or 10-12 h jeep);
2. 6. 07.
- Skardu (275 km or 7-8
3. 6. 07.
4. 6. 07.
Askole (3.048 m) (96 km);
5. 6. 07.
Jhola (3.240 m) /8 h/;
6. 6. 07.
Paiyu (3.368) /6 h/;
7. 6. 07.
Acclimation in Paiyu (3.368
8. 6. 07.
Khuburtze (3.800 m) /3 h/;
9. 6. 07.
Passage to Urdukas (4.011 m)
10. 6. 07.
Passage to Goro II (4.500 m)
Passage to BC Broad peak
(4.850 m) /8 h/;
from 12. 6.
to 11. 7.
Climbing Broad peak:
C-1 (5.600 m);
C-3 (7.000 m).
12. 7. 07.
Passage to Ali Camp (4.800)
13. 7. 07.
Gondogoro la (5.680 m) to Khuspang(4.680 m) /11h/;
14. 7. 07.
Via Shaicho (4.150 m) to
Hushe (3.300 m) /9h/;
15. 7. 07.
Passage to Skardu;
16. 7. 07.
17. 7. 07.
Passage to Chilas
18. 7. 07.
Passage to Islamabad
19. 7. 07.
20. 7. 07.
(8,30 h) to Dubai (10,40 h)
21. 7. 07.
h), Pariz (13,30 – 17,25 h),
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