Broad Peak Summit: Even though
the weather conditions became worse, Gunther Unterberger an Louis Rousseau
could reach the top of Broad Peak yesterday at 5 p.m. local time. It was
really a stupendous achievement from my comrades, I am delighted was the
comment from expedition leader Gerfried Göschl from K2 basecamp. Göschl will
decide next days over a second trial to summit Chogori.
Earlier: After the dense fog didn't clear up, Gerfried Goschl, Kilian
Volken an the polish climber Jecek Teler must abandon the primal plan to try a
straight ascent to K2 summit from camp III. In addition to it the wind in
higher regions grow distinctly. The three climbers slept this night in 7350
meters and will descent in the direction of basecamp today. An further ascent
trial depends on the another weather development. Günther Unterberger, Ronald
Newerkla, Louis Rousseau und Karl Fanta will today try once more to reach the
summit of Broad Peak.
Earlier: Unpromising news today from Gerfried Göschl from Camp III:
We couldn't ascend to camp IV, the whole day there was a dense fog. So Kilian
Volken, the polish climber Jecek Teler and myself want to start a straight
ascent to the K2-summit tonight. If the fog do not clear or the conditions of
snow are bad, we must upturn reported Gerfried this afternoon via satellite
telephone. The three experienced climbers know about the difficulties of this
endeavor, anyway there is a distance from 1 300 metres in height to cover, but
because of the good condition of the climbers, they want to appreciate this
last chance. Besides an posterior ascent is impossible, because the wind will
grow on Tuesday. The climbers start the climbing tonight at ten o`clock local
time. In the meantime Georg and Hans Wenzl descended to camp II. No
informations have arrived by now from Günther Unterberger, Ronald Newerkla,
Louis Rousseau and Karl Fanta. The four climbers tried to summit Broad Peak
The K2-express, composed of
Gerfried Göschl, Kilian Volken, Hans and Georg Wenzl, rolls on. The climbers
reached in the afternoon camp 3 in 7350 m. The climbers are in good condition
but the tiredness makes perceivable. Three men spent last night in two
sleeping bags. It was very difficult to sleep informed Gerfried his life
companion Heike Grünwald. Main task in Camp 3 now: Melting of snow and drink
drink as much as possible. Good news today had also Charly Gabl,
chief-meteorologist from Innsbruck/Austria. The weather looks good next two
days less wind and small cloudiness. Tomorrow Gerfried, Kilian, Georg and
Hans will ascent to camp IV in 7800 m. Tonight also the remained climbers on
Broad Peak will start the stage to the summit. Günther Unterberger, Ronald
Newerkla, Louis Rousseau und Karl Fanta will decamp at 3 o`clock.
NEWS Gerfried Goschl
After a forced march from
more than 11 hours Gerfried Göschl, Hans and Georg Wenzl, as well as Kilian
Volken reached camp 2 in 6700 m. The stage was very hard because the snow was
deeply and every step costed much energy more than expected. A moment of
shock was the descent of an avalanche during the ascent to camp 2. But
Gerfried an his comrades are fortunately in good condition and will go today
to the camp 3 in 7350 m. An Update follows today evening.
Start to the K2-summit; News
from Gerfried Göschl-Expedition
After stay out the bad
weather in basecamp today Gerfried Göschl, Kilian Volken, as well as Georg and
Hans Wenzl have started the ascent of K2. The polish climber Jecek Teler has
affiliated to the four-man-team. Even today they want to reach the camp 2 in
6700 m. Tomorrow Gerfried and his comrades will reach the camp 3 (7350 m) via
the abruzzigrat. The further plan is, that they will reach the camp 4 in 7800
m on Monday and already in the night to Tuesday they will start to attain the
summit of K2. The timetable is urgent, because the settled weather will finish
in the middle of next weak. In the meantime also Günther Unterberger, Ronald
Newerkla, Louis Rousseau and Karl Fanta have recent started the ascent to the
summit of Broad Peak. The will reach the top on Monday.
Earlier Update: News from Gerfried Göschl
After the successful ascent of Broad
Peak Gerfried Göschl, Georg and Hans Wenzl as well as Kilian Volken are now
preparing for climbing of K2, even if the weather in the moment is very bad.
Already tomorrow they will migrate to the K2 basecamp. Günther Unterberger, he
was ill with an gastric flu, will together with Ronald Newerkla, Louis Rousseau
and Karl Fanta try once more, to reach the summit of Broad Peak. Everybody else
from the expedition team are on homeward bound
Gerfried reports summits of Broad Peak by himself and his team, more details and
pictures to follow soon..
Update 7/18/2007: The summit push is on...They hope to summit
soon (Friday in Pakistan)
Update 7/16/2007: Everything is
ok. All members back to base camp. One member went alone, he turned around on
the "Vorgipfel". After some problems on the way down, he came back to basecamp
alone and everything is ok
Earlier: After two days of rest in the basecamp, all
members of the expedition climbed to camp 2 (6200m), except doc Günther Straub
and Günther Unterberger. Both of them helped the amerikan expedition member Ken
Hill, because he hurt his leg on the way up. So they returned to basecamp.
Tomorrow Ken Hill has to leave the basecamp with the helicopter, for him the
expedition is over.
Doc Gunther Straub and Günther Unterberger
will climb tomorrow to camp 2.
All of the other members are healthy and
they will take a rest for 3-4days. They will use the time for washing their
bodies. Hopefully it is warm enough!!
Earlier: In the morning the broad peak expedition went to camp 1
(5650m). A few of them went to camp 2 (6200). All of them are back in the
basecamp. Now the take a rest for one or two days and then the whole group
will go to camp 2.
Earlier News: On Friday all members of the broad peak expedition arrived
the basecamp healthy and without any problems. Today they have to stay in the
basecamp, because the weather is very bad. (fog, rain, a bit snow).. have a
Earlier: After altogether 26 hours bus
travel (approx. 800km) on the Karakorum Highway on 20 June in Skardu concerned
the expedition. All participants are well. Gerfried was received from the
mayor of the city Besham solemnly and like promised a part of the donation
money handed over. The people thank you there many times for the generous
support of the earthquake assistance. Particularly the company AMO (Advanced
Medical Optics) is to emphasize here as well as the family of the Brucker of
eye prime acre Dr. Markus Grasl. For all participants there was also still
another meal with the highest representatives alpine club of Pakistan, whom
the expedition this way their respect for the enterprise wanted to express.
Today (22.Juni) is further to Askole, the last locality. From there the troop
becomes in 5 days in the Basecamp of the Broad peak trekken. Tomorrow
(23.Juni) a Live interview on radio Steiermark is planned. )
Earlier: Dear EverestNews.com, all
members are save and sound in Skardu. Its real hot here!! Tomorrow we depart
for Askole. We want to reach BC of Broad Peak on 27. June. Nice greetings,
Earlier: Dear EverestNews.com, on Saturday (day of the
Broad Peak first climb) we had our official kickoff in a festival with many
climbers of Broad Peak (Wintersteller and Diemberger, Doug Scott, Simone Moro,
Siegi and Gaby Hupfauer, Viki Goselj, Janusz Majer and ......).
We got some money for my families
help-project for the earthquake victims in Pakistan. Big thanks to the
organizers of the festival, the children of Markus Schmuck (who died 1,5 years
ago) and Fritz Wintersteller.
We are the Austrian International OeAV Broad
Peak Golden Jubilee and K2 Expedition 2007. OeAV is the short form of the
Austrian Alpine Club . Also the first climb of the Broad Peak had been a OeAV
expedition.We are very happy about the information from our agent Mr. Asghar
Ali Porik that our cargo already arrived in Islamabad. He stored 58 pieces for
On Sunday 17. June we will leave. If all
works well we will reach BC of Broad Peak latest on 27. June.
We are 22 climbers, together we have
already climbed 21 8000m-summits. We are from 7 nations (Austria, Germany,
Switzerland, Canada, USA, Mexico and Ecuador). Nearly all climbers are good
friends of mine. They climbed with me already in the big mountains or shared
the same goals.
We want to climb together 2 mountains, first
Broad Peak, then K2. After Broad Peak some of us will leave the BC to walk
home. 9 of us (Me, Günther Unterberger, brothers Hans and Georg Wenzl, Ronald
Newerkla, Kilian Volken, Louis Rousseau, Ken Hill and Pepe Jijon) will go up
to the BC of K2 to attempt the mountains, after a well acclimatisation on BP,
in a fast and light .....
We hope that weather and health will be good
Next news will be from Pakistan.
pic 1353: With my very good friend Hans Goger,
with whom I did climb on the slopes of Mount Everest.
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