3 October 2007 K2 Denis and
Serguey. SUMMIT!!! SMS from Denis, 5-30 a.m. Moscow time: We're in C4, begin
the descent. Yesterday we reached the top.
1 October 2007 K2 North
Ridge. Denis and Serguey. 2 p.m. Moscow time. Karl Gabl from Austria give me
the weather forecast for K2:
the meteorological model shows nearly continuous mostly light snowfall in the
next days till Saturday. The wind situation: In the night to Tuesday wind
speed up to 100 km/h and also the whole following week till Friday stormy
conditions prevail. The average wind speed is around 80 /km/h on Top of K2
(mostly direction Southwest). In 7000 m wind should be around 40 to 50 km/h.
October, 1 SMS from Denis,
0-30 p.m. Moscow time: We're in Camp 4. The weather's very bad, no visibility.
If the weather will give us the chance, we'll go up tomorrow.
September, 30 SMS from Denis,
3-00 p.m. Moscow time: We reached Camp 3. The weather's clear, windy, cold. We
September, 29 SMS from Denis,
2-00 p.m. Moscow time: We have to finish our ambitious plan: we can't reach K2
North Ridge due to avalanche danger. We decided to climb normal route. The
weather's very bad. We reached Camp 2.
September, 28 SMS from Denis,
2-00 p.m. Moscow time: The weather's bad, avalanches on K2 North Face, too
dangerous. We'll wait here 2 days, then will try to cross to the normal route
(NW ridge, Japanese) because we wouldn't reach that route from the BC in such
September, 28 SMS from Denis,
12-00 a.m. Moscow time: Is there the weather improving in nearest days? We're
in so bad conditions here - it's horrible... It looks like this blizzard
finish only in Spring...
September, 28 SMS from Denis,
8-00 a.m. Moscow time: the snow blizzard began today night, no visibility now,
avalanches are falling from the North Face. We're obliged to wait 1-2 days.
We're chronically unsuccessful in this expedition...
27 September 2007 : SMS from Denis, 5-40 pm Moscow time: We
will start tomorrow. There will be no messages and sms from us during 10 days
- we'll leave our thuraya phone here, on the glacier. We feel well.
SMS from Denis, 2-40 pm Moscow time: we are under the beginning of our route.
Waiting the affordable weather, but... here's real winter. But we hope for a
chance for our new route...
Earlier Update: Acclimatization push on Japanese route:
16 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS
from Denis 15-00 (Moscow time): "We reached 8300, but there was very dangerous
avalanche prone snow, so we turned back. Now we're in C4. All's OKl" Two days
earlier Denis and Serguey climbed to C3. "The weather's good, we see Nanga,
Latoks, Pamir... All the world as on the hand! But it's more snow than were
two weeks ago when Kazakhs climbed". They have to complete their
acclimatization, then rest about 5 days before start to new route. But the
weather forecast shows very bad weather after Sep., 19. In Saturday Denis and
Serguey reached Camp 4. In the evening they went up to look at the couloir
which led to the summit, find the way to the glacier and decided to start on 5
a.m. for the summit attempt - as Denis wrote in SMS on 7 pm when the duo
returned back to the C4 tent. He added, that they're afraid of cold, because
didn't plan summit bid when left BC and haven't enough warm clothes for it.
Update K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition has went
However, K2 North Ridge: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov
are there ...... They are preparing for the first climb via the North Ridge
(real North Ridge, not North-West ridge, which was climbed first by Japanese
expedition). Today Denis and Serguey reached Camp 2 - it's their
acclimatization push. Their plan is to reach 7800, then to descend to BC, and
after the rest to begin the climb of new route.
31 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan
expedition. Radio contact 10.00 (Almaty time) Puchinin is descending, now he's
about 7500 and feels well. Serfuey Bogomolov turned back at 8200 too. Pivtsov
and Zhumayev are climbing further. Puchinin has to wait Bogomolov and then
both will descend to the "Tooth"
Radio contact 8-00 (Almaty): We spent the night in
C4. YEsterday we fixed 400 m uo alomg the rocks and appeared under the rock
wall. We begin to climb it and to find the way. Angrew Puchinin turned back.
Ervand Iljinsky looks on climbers in binoculars
from the Middle Camp and corrects the direction.
Update 8/30/2007: Aug, 30 Serguey Bogomolov called today
that team climbed 3 pitched above C4. The couloir is avalanche dangerous, so
they decided to overcome it via rocks, so they will climb the variant,
different of the original Japanese route.
Today the Kazakh team is ascending to
Camp 4. The weather becames better (all the way to C3 they did in very bad
weather - snow blizzard, strong wind) They hope for the summit bid tomorrow
or the day after.
Today 4 p.m. radio contact with the
team: they were about 100 m below C4. The main problem is to find the safe
way from the ridge to the glacier. Last time they have found the couloir,
but it was too dangerous. Now, after snowfalls, they hope that the couloir
is safe enough, in other case they have to overcome via the rocks.
Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov have
reached BC Aug 25, next day brought some equipment to 5200. 27-28 they
rested in BC. Then they're planning the acclimatization push via normal
route (NW ridge) till 7800. Perhaps, they are ascending now, Denis hasn't
written yet today. After acclimatization they hope to begin their
alpine-style climb via N Face.
Update 8/27/2007: K2 NW ridge: The weather is bad. Puchinin,
Brodsky and Bogomolov reached Camp 1 aug, 25, Maxut, Vassily and Alexander
Sofrygin reach Roch teeth Camp. Brodsky and Sofrygain decided not to go to
the summit bid and yesterday they returned to BC.
K2 North Face: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov arrived to
BC with camels caravan. They are brave and yesterday left for the
acclimatization push. (SMS from Aug 26, 15-15)
Update 8/17/2007: Various climbers still at high camp
waiting on the weather break...
Update 8/15/2007: 15 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan
expedition. Yesterday the team set Camp 4 at 7800. Then reached 8050 m.
Chest-deep snow. Avalanche danger
26 June 2007 Kazakh K2 expedition (NW Ridge) start today
from Almaty. Members are: Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Brodsky,
Andrew Puchinin, Aggey Skopin, Malik Ismetov, Alexander Sofrygin, and Russian
Serguey Bogomolov. The coach - Ervand Iljinsky. The team'll go to Bishkek,
then to China by cars provided by their general sponsor - Astana Motors
company. The last climb of the NW ridge route was accomplished by Russian
(Togliatti) team in 1996. The NW ridge is
often called as the North ridge, but it's geographically incorrect
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