Anatoly Lutov, Vlad Kagan, Sergi
Statsevich and Mikhail Melnikov reached the summit on July 19th.
Himalayas are a great mountain range. The central Himalayan mountains are
situated in Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the borders of
Bhutan and Sikkim. The Nanga Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of
the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks just springing up from
nothing, and is surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga Parbat or
"Nanga Parvata" means the naked mountain. Its original and appropriate
name, however, is Diamir the king of the mountains.
|Nanga Parbat Base Camp
(main peak) has a height of 8126 meters/26,660 ft. It has three vast faces.
The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face is dominated by the north and south silver crags and
silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the beginning. It converts itself
into ice fields around Nanga Parbat peak. The Rupal face is the highest
precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living legend in mountaineering
from Italy, says that "every one who has ever stood at the foot of this face
(4500 meters) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it or flown over it, could not
help but have been amazed by its sheer size; it has become known as the
highest rock and ice wall in the world!".
has always been associated with tragedies and tribulations until it was
climbed in 1953. A lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga Parbat since
1895. Even in recent years it has claimed a heavy toll of human lives of
mountaineers, in search of adventure and thrill. Its victims, have
included those in pursuit of new and absolutely un-climbed routes leading
to its summit.
It was in
1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga Parbat dammed the Indus river. This
created a huge lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake down-stream.
The flood of water that was released when the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft
in the river's 3 level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It was
also in the middle of the nineteenth century that similar catastrophes were
later caused by the damming of Hunza and Shyok rivers.
Parbat peak was discovered in the nineteenth century by Europeans. The
Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich (Germany) came in 1854 to
Himalayas and drew a panoramic view which is the first known picture of
Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was murdered in Kashgar. The curse of
Nanga Parbat had begun.
|Nanga Parbat, Fairy
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