Like other peaks in Pakistan it has
also two names Diran Peak and Minapin Peak. It is
situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near
the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers. It is easily
accessible because of the Karakoram Highway.
A three member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer
Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, climbed this peak in 1968. They
set up camp 1 at 4800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow are
recorded between camp 1 at 4800m and camp II at 5500m. It was the camp III at
6300m that the party was able to reach the peak, which it termed as a “big
summit plateau”. Their line of ascent, a rising traverse across the convoluted
North Face to reach the crest of the West Ridge and then back up this to the
summit. Has become the standard route on the mountain. Although technically
very straightforward in good snow condition (30 degree on the face and around
40 degree on the ridge), the route has reputation for objective danger and
In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition led by Hans Jochen
Schneider attempted this peak and on 9th June, Erwin Stocker and one porter
reach a 18000 foot col situated to the north of Minapin. Subsequently, the
party could reach a place, which was less then one thousand feet short of
northwest face of the summit.
1964, a three members Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted this peak
from northwest face but failed due to bad weather and danger avalanches.
Asghar Ali Porik
M/s Jasmine Tours
GPO Box 859, Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
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