George Dijmarescu Everest 2003

George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...

Dear EverestNews.com readers. Still in ABC waiting friendly weather, last night our heart of the expedition, the Sherpas, returned here from the last camp (8300m) for what was the final trip depositing all Oxygen, tents, gas, stoves, and the rest of the little items easy to forget by a tired climber. Nima Gombu, our sirdar reported that our sherpa group were the only ones who carried on to the last camp, others returned to ABC due to strong winds, but the winds abated above 7900m something rather common and expected by the experienced sherpa, it seem to me our sherpa experienced paid off. Again I mention Dawa Nuru, my favorite sherpa and human being, who will impress anyone either in climbing gear or on any street of the world. A man who does things and never talk about it unless questioned. When we lost several tents during the seven days of storms, two of the tents disappeared completely from the North Col, reports from various climbers tell stories how some tents were rolling down the Col, but no trace of it at the bottom. Dawa understood well that those tents are supposed to be only in the deep crevasses of the Col. He went with our veteran sherpa Motilan a man over 60 (is difficult to say for sure how old are some sherpa); with them went also Pemba Chotin of Makalu region, Sherap (Shery) of Solu, then helping from a Japanese exp. my friend Ang Dawa of Thame a five time Everest summiter and a wonderful man. Knowing I cannot keep up with the sherpa, I decide to give them my video camera for documenting the tent rescue. Five hours later Dawa returned the camera with a video of medium quality but with a golden content, images that will make their boss Ang Tshering Sherpa cry. With all the proper rescue technique and gear in place, Dawa launched himself rappelling down the 20m deep crevasse, the tent down below, just visible and almost covered with snow, a few nerving seconds and Dawa was starting to dig out the yellow tent with his ice axe, surprisingly some of the poles were kipping the shape of the V 25 and it look bulky from the eye of the camera. Dawa grabbed it with his left hand and start hauling it with shear power up the steep wall of the crevasse with some help from the Sherpa above. I couldn't see any fear or tiredness in Dawa's eyes, the camera was rolling focusing on his face, he came to the top and the event was practically over. Our Sherpa dedication saved gear worth over $2000, but more important irreplaceable down suits of two of our members.

Yesterday I learn that our second airborne tent was rescued by Russell Brice's sherpa from another crevasse and surprisingly Russell announced the discovery at a meeting. We can only be grateful to him and those who did the work of recovery. It is also known that after the storm, with climbing gear strewn for miles, several sherpa went out scouting for airborne treasures and some returned with more than 5 sleeping bags. Russell gesture must serve as a example of care for a fellow climber's precious, irreplaceable gear. Thank you. Now with all of our camps established and our members in good condition, we are waiting for a good news and as far as I am concern only Kari Kobler can be trusted with accurate weather forecast. Last year he was 100% correct and I was one of those who did follow his forecast, summiting a day after the Swiss expedition, May 17th. I went to Kari's camp for news, I was received with tremendous kindness, he hand over the printed forecast and after I read it I asked how can his forecast be so accurate and who is the guy who interpreted, smiling with his bearded face he reply after couple of seconds; this is a Swiss work, everyone in the tent exploded.

Kari, keep up the so far excellent work, I told him ''It save lives'' and he again smile, what a man. As time dragged on patience is getting thinner and coughs thicker. Last night one of our summit sherpa Nima of Thame complained of severe laryngitis, spitting blood, a serious illness remembering me of my 1998 failure in Everest, laryngitis is something I kept for months after I returned to the US. At the last moment today, May 14 and with confidence of good weather, I believe we will start for summit tomorrow May 15th, however Kari advises for tomorrow 8AM forecast and further confirmation. [Sounds like they have another forecast coming in tomorrow. Note they ORDER these forecasts, these are not regional forecasts, but custom detailed forecasts based on the Everest weather system, not on a regional system like most use] Therefore the first Romanian exp to Mt Everest will attempt the summit on May18th or 19th, my report tomorrow will confirm either way.

A positive news, all of our Sherpa wanted to go for the summit. I share the same philosophy, they deserve it no matter what. However we will make the final decision at the last camp and it will depend greatly on the number of the climbers reaching 8300m and their conditions. Special arrangements were made for some but this ought to be kept confidential. I also wanted to mention that I feel for the first time a bond with all the members present up here at ABC. We had serious differences over the weeks, some were wise enough to take my advise some follow their instinct, either way those individuals ought to be respected, as far as I am concerned.  I give my outmost admirations for their dedication, suffering tremendous weather elements, their patience and I hope their love for one another. It is important to mention and I hope this is not a breaking news that none of them ever reached 8000 meters and for them to performed the way they did I can only be proud of my Romanian heritage. Until tomorrow I send my love to all Connecticut people, especially to those in Hartford. Mother, father, Sunny I promise I will summit again. Sunny darling I dedicate this one to you sweet baby. George Dijmarescu

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