Update 20/05/05 from Alan
Hinkes: Weather challenges final push for the summit
The weather on the mountain
continues to remain poor, throwing everything it can at Alan. So much so that
the Swiss expedition is considering leaving base camp in the next few days to
return to Kathmandu. However, Alan is determined to give his everything and is
remaining there at least for another week to see if there is a break in the
weather. If there is an opening he will probably make an attempt on the
mountain early to mid next week.
Leading British mountaineer Alan
Hinkes has just called in to Berghaus, his sponsors, headquarters from his
record summit attempt on the 8000m Kangchenjunga mountain in Nepal.
Alan is in good spirits and
following several days on the mountain to set up camp 1 he has returned to
base camp for a well earned rest before making an attempt further up the
mountain to set up camp 2.
From camp 2 Alan hopes
to be able to make a summit attempt. However conditions on the mountain
are treacherous with a Swiss expedition already having two of its mountaineers
helicoptered out with injuries.
Alan states: "I am hoping
there won’t be a need for a third camp but with conditions already
threatening the lives of those around me I need to make a sound judgement
call when the time comes. As I have always stated no mountain is worth a
life but with this being my final 8000er and having been to
Kangchenjunga and failed twice already I have my sights set firm.”
Alan is again climbing with
his good friend Pasang with whom he summited his 13th 8000er, Dhaulagiri, in
Spring last year. If successful he will be the first Briton to have climbed
all of the world’s 8000m peaks and only the 13th person in the world to have
stood where so many can only dream of standing.
Alan Hinkes has announced his final Challenge 8000 expedition. Alan will be
flying out to the Himalaya at the end of March to climb Kangchenjunga and if
successful will enter the history books as the first Briton and only one of 12
people to have stood at the top of all of the world’s 8000m peaks.
As part of Challenge 8000, Alan has reached the top of 13 of the world’s most
famous and dangerous mountains, including Everest, K2 and Nanga Parbat and in
2002 he became the first Britain to climb Annapurna in 32 years and in record
time via a new route. All of these mountains are in the “Death Zone”, an
unforgiving environment where the human body rapidly deteriorates and no one
can survive for more than a few days.
Kangchenjunga (8586m) is the
third highest peak in the world. Alan had to previously abandon an attempt on
the mountain in May 2000 following bad weather conditions; while on his
descent a snow bridge collapsed across a crevasse and he fell into it,
breaking his arm. Having encountered the giant before Alan knows, like its
fellow 8000ers it is a very dangerous mountain and one for which he has to
Alan comments: "Kangchenjunga lies at the eastern extreme of the Himalaya and
is exposed to exceptionally bad weather conditions as the monsoon period moves
in. This isn’t my first visit to Kangchenjunga and I know what lies in store,
the terrain is very difficult and once on the mountain there is a very serious
danger of avalanche and rockfall. I am however not worried, it feels like I am
returning to an old friend and I am really looking forward to it. As I have
always said I climb to live, not to die - the summit is always optional but
returning is mandatory.”
Alan Hinkes has been working with Berghaus since the early 1980s and will be
using many of the company’s most technical products whilst on expedition.
Alan Hinkes Summits Dhaulagiri! and
Alan Hinkes Summits Dhaulagiri more details and
Mountaineer Alan Hinkes returns to Kathmandu following successful summit of
Kangchenjunga 2003 Alan Hinkes
Alan Hinkes Spring Makalu 99
Alan Hinkes Q&A
2000 Alan Hinkes
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