1.) Marko Lihteneker: 7 Summits
Club expedition: A low budget commercial expedition
The details of Marko
Lihteneker who died on Everest are slowing coming together. Two climbers have
confirmed seeing Marko with oxygen problems. The details of his oxygen problem
is still unclear at this point. But oxygen systems fail regularly on Everest.
According to climbers on the mountain with Marko, he did not have another
bottle with him. He had left the other bottle at a spot lower on the mountain
to pick it up when he descended. Marko also did not have a Sherpa.
Marko was seen trying to work on this oxygen
system at the spot where the Chinese found him on their way to the summit a
few days ago. It was unclear if Marko was going up or down.
was a member of 7 Summits Club
Expedition. We have
been talking with Abramov Alexander, Leader of 7 summits club expedition,
about what happened. He sent us the following letter which is unedited
except corrected spelling in some cases..
EverestNews, If you wish you can publish my letter
it will be useful for many Everest climbers.
use "POISK " o2. I have boute [bought] all bottles, mask, regulators just new
from "POISK" factory in Russia from Maksimov Andrey. I am sure that reason is
not in quality of o2 but in case that o2 finished at normal way and climbers
not control well the oxygen volume .
and Marko started 03;30 from 8300. Victor reported from summit at 12;30 At
13;00-13:30 Viktor meet Marko, who was in 1 hour to summit, so Marko reach
summit about 14;30 and begin go down about 15;00 Normally people climb to 2-
step about 4 hours, and near this place change 1-st bottle to fool second. If
you breathe 2l per minutes all yours 02 should finish in 8 hours.
count: Normally pressure in Poisk bottle is 250-260 atmosphere. It
meaning that 4l bottle consist about 1000 littre 02. If you use 2l per minute
you have 500 minutes before your oxygen finish! 500/60 = 8,33 ( 8 hour 20
ascent me and all team descuse not one time, that after 2-d step you can go up
to summit not more then 5 hours, because you need 2,5-3,0 hours for descend
to 2-nd step, so totally 8 hours.
As we see
in Marko case hi climb from 2-d step to summit from 7;00 - 7,30 till 14;30
-15;00 (minimum 7 and maximum 8 hours). Of course, his 02 finishing not far
situation will cleaning [clear] after our team will reach Marko and check his
02 equipment. It can happen in 30 May
7 summits club
Marko Lihteneker: More
details of his death are still coming in since that update; We hope to speak with Alex soon...
2.) Dieter on
Kari Kobler's Mount Everest 2005
Expedition: A high dollar commercial expedition
The following was released by the team: Dieter K. climbed up
to 8600m and then turned around. At 7900m Dieter K. let the leader know that
he wanted to overnight at the 7800m campsite. On the morning of the 5th,
Dieter K was found dead shortly above the campsite tent. The death of our
expedition member and friends of Dieter distressed us deeply. We send his
family our deepest regrets."
Mt. Everest 2005: Another death on
the North side on a commercial team
More information is expected to come out over
time, including the answer to the question on how a climber on a high dollar
commercial team can die outside of a tent, assuming the report is correct.
More sad news...
Squadron Leader S S Chaithanya:
After the summits on 30th May in which three members of
the IAF team summited Everest from the North [Wg Cdr RC Tripathi (0515h), Sgt
NR Chaudhuri (0630h) and Sqn Ldr SS Chaitanya (0945h)].
A rescue operation was started, but there has been no signs
of the climber. The news has
been released according to a report
by the Ministry of Defense.
Squadron Leader S S Chaithanya did not come back to high camp after summiting.
RC Tripathi and NR Choudhary with their Sherpas arrived at reached camp three
at about 7:00 pm. The Sherpa with Squadron Leader Chaithanya reached the camp
at around 8:15 pm and informed the team that he had lost contact with
Chaithanya. Squadron Leader Chaithanya is still officially reported missing
and has not been located.
Squadron Leader S S
Chaithanya was late coming down...
1.) Rob Milne: Henry Todd's commercial
Rob's expedition leader Henry Todd has sent EverestNews.com
the following message: "Just below the Balcony he suddenly collapsed, and was
found to have died instantly of a sudden heart attack. This was confirmed by
the 3 doctors we have on the team who were climbing with him. He had had no
problems prior to this and it was completely unexpected. All his team are
shocked and saddened by this turn of events and they are now descending the
mountain to Base Camp".
2005: Scottish climber Rob Milne dies on Everest details. We knew and had
talked with Rob several times. He was a great guy! Sad news..
2.) Mike O'Brien:
American Everest expedition
which was part of Dan Mazur SummitClimb permit: Mike fell in a
crevasse and died.
Mike was criticized by some of the commercial
expeditions for falling into
the crevasse. What they
did not tell you was that at least 2 high budget commercial expeditions on the
south side had members fall into crevasses. In both cases the members were alone,
in one of the cases the client was a guided client. In both cases the clients lived,
and the teams never reported the news.
Caveat emptor! Don't believe everything you read, especially
some commercial expeditions "press releases". More real details
please instead of press releases.
We talked with Mike several
times before he left for Everest. Mike was a great guy. He did not want to be
hauled up Everest. He wanted to climb it. He died trying. He was a nice guy
and was climbing for a great cause.
Dr Sean Egan: Sean died while coming down from
base camp after not feeling well.
Several other close calls!!
Many as normal! The difference between life and death on Everest can be very
close. One of the most interesting close calls was before the climbers ever got
to the mountain.
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