8000 METER PEAKS
Reinhold Messner: "All
the 8,000ers have one, nothing else and that is a main summit.
According to his or her personal experience, each person
must decide by himself or herself where they have been. Always
for me the most important thing is not where the others have gone but the
experience lived through".
"This 'race' is a little outside the objective. I do not believe that
it is a race between climbers rather it is between the
"media". Perhaps I am mistaken. If
people want to play, in my opinion, the climber must reach the highest
point and without oxygen, of course. In
fact, if you have a minimum of ethics, your heart will say to you if your climbing
is clean or not. Personally,
I went twice to Shishapangma because the first time, in 1990, the route to the
main summit was dangerous."
Krzysztof Wielicki: "If
we agree that the 14 8,000ers' main summits means that "the highest
point" then this always the main summit".
Carlos Carsolio: "To
complete the 14 8,000ers one talks about reaching main
summits of the fourteen mountains.
These mountains have 21 independent summits of more than 8000 meters,
and a considerable amount of "antesummits" (he
considers an antesummit the central top of Shishapangma), if these are
subsidiary summits then there are 22). That
is to say, to be able to complete the fourteen, you must reach the highest point
of each one. An interesting
challenge for the generations of the future is to get to complete 21 summits,
one of them even remains unclimbed - the Mid Lhotse summit".
that have reached the Summit of all 14 8000 Meter
(ITA) in 16 years 1970/86, at age 42.
(POL) in 8 years 1979/87 at age 41.
(SUI) in 13 years 1982/95 at age 36.
(MEX) in 11 years 1985/96 at age 33.
Krzysztof Wielicki (POl) in 16 years 1980/96 at age 46.
(Spain) in 14 years 1985/99 at age 43.
Martini (ITA) in 24 years 1976/2000 at age 49.
Hong-Gil Um (Korean)
Inurrategui in 10 years 7 months and
16 days to achieve this feat. All the peaks was
climbed without bottled oxygen.
Mr. Han Wang Yong
(1966), Ilsan-Gu Kyungi-Do, Korea
||Height in Meters
Sir E. Hillary, T. Norgay
A. Compagnoni, L. Lacedelli
G. Band, J. Brown
F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss
J. Couzy, L. Terrary
S. Joechler, H. Tichy, P. Dawa Lama
K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, N. Dorji,
Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
M. Herzog, L. Lachenal
||1958; Andrew Kaufman, P. Schoening
H. Buhl, K. Diemberger, M. Schmuck, F. Wintersteller
||1956; Larch, F. Moravec,
H. Ching & nine climbers
Contact Todd at
EverestSpeakersBureau.com 865-525-8008 for more
Ed Viesturs is widely regarded as this country's foremost
high-altitude mountaineer, and one of the all-time "greats" in the world of
mountaineering. Familiar to many from the 1996 IMAX Everest Expedition
documentary, Ed was awarded the historic Lowell Thomas Award by the Explorer's
Club in 2002, for outstanding achievement in the field of mountaineering,
along with such notables as Sir Edmund Hillary. Ed has successfully summited
all 14 of the world's fourteen 8000 meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.
He is one of only a handful of climbers in history (and the only American) to
HIGHEST PLACES is the inspirational account of Ed's fourteen year pursuit of
all the world's peaks above 8000 meters, a goal nearing its culmination. In a
presentation tailored to fit the particular concerns of his many and varied
corporate audiences, Ed uses spectacular photographs from his 16 years of
expedition climbing as breath-taking illustration for his compelling story.
Ed makes a clear
and dramatic connection for his audiences between commitment to integrity and
superlative achievement. Totally committed to the integrity of his approach to
his goals, Ed has elected to forgo using supplemental oxygen on his climbs,
making an already extremely difficult endeavor almost beyond human
possibility. He does this not to prove anything "macho" or vainglorious, but
just the opposite: to climb without oxygen is a direct, often humbling
encounter with the true reality of these mountains. "I want to climb the
mountain under its own terms," he states. "How I climb a mountain is more
important to me than getting to the summit at all costs."
Ed's fourteen-year quest has encompassed many astounding successes within it,
each of which would be the pinnacle of life-time accomplishment for most
adventurers. But Ed shares a broader, bigger view of life and of success, with
uncommon messages of focus, passion, desire, and patience. These messages,
together with Ed's friendly, gently humorous style, make Seeking the Highest
Places a deeply inspiring, unforgettable presentation for everyone lucky
enough to experience it.
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