Gonzalez-Rubio on the Summit K2
I am going for the Summit
If the weather permits I
could be reaching the summit this Saturday
The day to attempt the summit
id close, we wait three days of good weather to climb. While we were not
ready to attack the summit one by one the other expeditions are coming, and we
are making agreement with them to make the ascent safe because we equipped the
mountain first. There is also a group of Spanish, Japanese who have a big
history in climbing giving their experience and wisdom to this sport.
While waiting for the window
of good weather to be able to start climbing, a lot of snow has fell and the
weather changes are very severe, from an intense heat to cold of minus 10
While we wait for the weather
to improve, we gather in the mess tent and we talk with the rest of the
expeditions, exchanging experiences of the mountain. Some days ago a Spanish
expedition arrived and said that before they got to base camp they had a
frustrated attempt of robbery by a person who was impersonating a Maoist, they
were close to a town and the people noticed what was happening and came to
help the climbers, catching the thief.
The inhabitants of the town
tied him to a pole, and everyone passing by said words in their language, they
spit him, and after six hours the police came and arrested him away. This is
a warning call to be careful and if we detect something strange we should
report it to the authorities.
The other expeditions have
started to install their camps, which is good for us, because the trail
remains open and it is easier to climb because it will take less time to get
to the high altitude camps. But everything depends on the weather.
Currently we have the ideal
acclimatization to be in these mountains of 8,000 meters, because the physical
effort is high, without forgetting the mental strength that we need to have to
take decisions in the right moment.
I am going for the Summit
Today, May 4, I communicated
with Jaime, a member of REAL AD, which is a company of young people who are
helping me with my goal of achieving 14 eight-thousand and I told him I was in
Camp 1, I hope to be in Camp 2 on Thursday and in Camp 3 on Friday, so that on
Saturday early in the morning I could be attempting the summit. The weather
is a little complicated but I hope that it is better up above.
As in K2 last year, I am
doing this mountain without help of supplemental oxygen as respect for the
mountain because that help makes that mountain of 8,000 meters into one of
Translated from Spanish by
Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio K2 Summiter Q&A March 2005 A must read
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