Update 3/14/2005: We have been told there is a factually incorrect report
published that stated only one climber has summited Everest using
SummitOxygen. While the benefits of SummitOxygen vs other types of oxygen on
Everest can be debated, this report that only one climber has summited Everest
using SummitOxygen is clearly another case of factually incorrect reporting on
In 2005 the Indian expedition as well as
are expected to use SummitOxygen. Many commercial teams have a heavy
investment in other oxygen equipment (delivery systems). It will be interesting to see how
SummitOxygen performs on the mountain in 2005. We have decided to do an oxygen
series of articles in the coming months. Our previous update is below.
|SummitOxygen has developed some new
systems for 2005 (see above for one of them). Of course in 2004 Ms. Randi
Skaug used the system to summit Everest in 2003 the British expedition
used to the system to summit Everest. Others did not summit using the
system... Of course other climbers did not summit using others systems also.
There is no historical stats on oxygen success with different systems. And
of course it is not always the oxygen!!!
Below is our experience for 2004. As you should with everything: test, go
slow, learn and listen.
SummitOxygen overall worked great for us on the 2004 Mallory and Irvine
expedition... We did have to make an adjustment to the equipment at ABC, which
was easy and basic for the climbers to do. At ABC we also checked the pressure
in each tank BEFORE taking the bottles up the mountain. One bottle was empty,
or more likely had a bad valve. The others bottles had varying amounts of
pressure, which we noted.
The oxygen once up on the mountain worked excellent, one
climber reported getting 21 hours out of a bottle! It is unclear what his flow
Caution to others: You should remember that
this oxygen is highly flammable, smoking should be avoided around it.
We would recommend people spend time using it before summit day, to get to
know the equipment, and check your bottles before you go high!.
Caution using other oxygen: We would recommend people spend
time using it before summit day, to get to know the equipment, and check your
bottles before you go high!
Year after year we hear of people with bad
valves on bottles that appear empty, check it before you go high! Of
course, there are a few who blame the equipment when maybe that was not the
SummitOxygen, again worked great for us! Over time
it could be a significant change in Mt Everest climbing. Many commercial
expeditions have much invested in the old system, therefore don't expect a
quick change. Time also should be taken to learn the new system. For much more
on SummitOxygen and
the advantages see
here for their web site.
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