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After a night in the camp 2 Alex Abramov and his team finished their
acclimatization program and started to go down. In the first steep part they
saw a man falling down the steep snow slope. He was stopped in the flat part
and it appears that he has broken leg. It was a leader of expedition from
Taiwan, he is name is John. It seems that his team was frostbitten after
summit climb. Alex with help of Sherpas and team members started a rescue
work. They has a big difficult during crossing the second steep part (seracs)
but managed to lower without big delay. Later Spanish doctor Augusto met the
rescue team and made a necessary injection to John.
They managed to reach the camp 1 at 6400 m to the darkness. Then Tibetan
porters took part in rescue and lowered Taiwanian through the «killer slope»
to the ABC camp. Late in the evening the team of Alex came to the camp too.
Everything finished quite well. The weather is very good and Alex hope to
start summit bid in 3-4 days.
Earlier: Now we are in camp 2 of Cho Oyu 7100 meters. Today we have made heavy
climb from 6400 on 7100 m. Probably, it is the most difficult part of whole
ascent. The part has seemed very long.. It takes about 9 hours. For the first
of us it takes seven, and for the last it was about 9 hours. But, all team is
here, and all - in good conditions.
Now we are sitting in our comfortable tents, Sherpas are
cooking, in general all is excellent! The main thing: the weather is good
today ! It is the time during our expedition. We called in Katmandu, there was
also the first day without rains. It appears that the weather has improved. It
is getting more cool, but it is so clear, that we could see all Himalaya
ridge.
Certainly, it is very pity to see, how expeditions of leading world operators
leave downwards. Now it would be possible to go on climb, but they have no
time according their plans of expedition. Under our plan, we spend a night in
camp two and tomorrow will descent in АВС. After that we will stay four nights
in ABC and wait for good weather.
Boris Korshunov (74 years old) is in the camp with us. He works in an
international expedition of Asian Trekking. Today he spends a night in camp 2,
tomorrow goes to the camp 3 and the day after tomorrow plans to go for the
summit. Boris tries to establish records of speed each time. I told him, that
it is more reasonable to be more prudent. He has climbed from camp 1 to camp 2
for 2:31. I told, that for him it was better come without forcing for 4 hours.
But Boris Korshunov does not want compromises!
With best regards,
Alex Abramov
7 Summits-Club - Alpindustria
Earlier:
AN ACCLIMATIZATION EXIT TO THE CAMP 1
On September, 26th our team has made an acclimatization exit to the camp 1 on
the height of 6400 meters. The weather was very bad. Leaving camp ABC, we have
not been assured, that we can reach camp one. When have realized that we could
make it, we have asked our Sherpas to bring products. The camp 1 has seriously
suffered during bad weather. Many tents are torn, things are scattered. We
have been forced to spend a night there. It was very cold, and in the morning
we have hastened to go down in АВС.
Singapore women: Cho Oyu Summit! 27 Sept 07
The Singapore Women`s Everest Team marked another successful expedition by
summiting Cho Oyu (8,201m) on 23rd Sept. Fully acclimatized and using
supplementary oxygen, the team set off for the summit at 1.30am on 23rd
September from Camp 3 at 7,500m. Team leader, Jane Lee, 23, arrived at the
summit at 10.20am, followed by team members Lee Li Hui, 26, Joanne Soo, 37 and
co-leader, Sim Yi Hui, 25. The team`s expedition doctor, Dr. Mok Ying Jang,
40, also made the summit shortly after. Team member Lee Peh Gee, 31, arrived
at the summit plateau at 8180m, but turned back just before the summit due to
dwindling oxygen supply.
Team leader, Jane Lee, says, “I am extremely elated that our expedition has
turned out so well. Not only has the team summitted, all members are also in
good health. The success of this expedition speaks volumes of our months of
training and preparation. The team is deeply grateful to all our base camp
manager, Mr Lim Kim Boon, 43, as well as to our supporters and well-wishers
who have been climbing the mountain with us every step of the way.”
Although the team summitted in perfect weather, the descent turned out to be
more challenging as the weather on Cho Oyu proved to be volatile and changed
for the worse within a matter of hours. The team braved a descent in
visibility of less than five meters and with wind speeds gusting up to 70km/h.
Fortunately, all team members made it down the mountain safely, in good health
and in high spirits.
The triumphant completion of this expedition marks an important phase of the
team`s training as Cho Oyu is often climbed in preparation for Everest. During
the Cho Oyu climb, teams test out their oxygen systems, communications
equipment and assess their physical response to being at high altitude.
This successful expedition would not have been possible without the help and
support from our climbing Sherpas, Kami, Mingma Tenzing, Kama Rita, Nima
Karma, Jamling and Phinjo Dorje. We would also like to thank all our sponsors
and supporters back home for all their encouragement and well wishes.
Alex Abramov
Earlier: MARAT SAFIN WENT TO DAVIS CUP
Marat Safin took a decision to return to Moscow for supporting
the Russian Team on Davis Cup semi-final. It was not easy, but a correct
decision. During travel, Marat has made two simple ascents and has passed from
Katmandu up to the base camp Cho Oyu. "It was surprising travel to Tibet. I
have a perfect rest, I was restored, has gained strength and confidence. Now I
am ready to new victories on courts " - have told Маrат, saying goodbye to his
friends from the Seven Summits Club – Alpindustria expedition. Rest of team
will go to the ABC camp tomorrow.
The team is on Base camp
Today, on September, 19th, our team has
gathered in our supercomfortable base camp Cho Oyu (about 5000 m high). Even
Evgeny Semionov (who had problems with visas), has caught up with us. He has
arrived today on a jeep together with expedition from Latvia. Just today our
Sherpas, having loaded 1800 kg on 30 yaks, have gone to the intermediate camp.
In the base camp I have met the officer of communication, my good friend, Mr.
Samdu. We work with him it last 4 years in the Base camp of Everest.
Best regards, Alex Abramov
MARAT SAFIN: LETTER FROM KATMANDU
To all my fans out there - I am writing to you from Katmandu. Yes a lot of you
have heard already that I was on my way to my exciting adventure to climb
Cho-Oyu, a mountain in the Himalayas in the Tibet.
I feel it is important for me to fully describe to you what has been going on
with me in the last few weeks as well as what are my future plans.
It is you guys who have always been an important role in my career and always
been there to support me through difficult times and the oh so sweet
victories. We have shared lots of times.
As you will remember I started the US Hardcourt season in Los Angeles where I
also began my association with my new coach Hernan Gumy.
I would personally like to say that the co-operation with Hernan is an
excellent one. I think he`s a great coach and I`m delighted with the work we
do together. It is only thanks to the confidence I have in him that has
allowed me to go ahead with this step that I have taken and to be where I am
now.
Through out the 8 weeks in the US we really tried to work on my game again. To
change my game tactics to where I will be playing again my old tennis style
meaning playing faster tennis, shorter points, hard hitting and playing more
on the baseline rather than playing two metres away from it as I felt I was
playing the last 1 and 1/2 years. I really did feel that things were improving
but unfortunately through the 1st round match at the US Open - I felt again
the pain in my left wrist - the same one that first started bothering me in
2003. At first I wasn`t too bothered with that but during my 2nd round match,
the pain got me out of focus and I felt that instead of concentrating on the
match, I was solely thinking of the implications of going through all the pain
and problems again.
My orthopeadic surgeon Dr. Feder from Los Angeles - flew into New York and
examined me after the match. His diagnosis was a relief for me. He said I will
only need 4-6 weeks rest. Luckily no extra damage had been made and I should
be completely fine after that.
Talking with my coach we have realised that this season is over for me and we
have made plans which I would love to share with you with regard to the
preparations for coming back to next year a better player and stronger and in
overall better shape. When I got back to Moscow and my doctors in Moscow
confirmed the same as Dr. Feder, the opportunity occurred to me to join the
mountaineering delegation which includes some of my closest friends and I felt
for the first time that this is something I really want to do outside of my
tennis career.
This is not some simple vacation on the beach. I know that the physical
challenge of climbing is huge. With the unique atmosphere and being away from
civilisation - hopefully this will renew my resolve and my powers for tennis.
I want this to be a special experience and it is something which deep down
inside I wanted to do for a long time.
Before leaving on this expedition, I ensured to close a deal with Gumy until
the end of 2008 and only after he agreed and supported me in taking this step
did I feel happy to carry on with my plans.
I have planned to be away for 4-6 weeks. I am truly very sorry that I will be
missing the Davis Cup semi final tie which I am sure my fellow countrymen will
be able to overcome even without me. At least I can say I have contributed a
bit to the efforts with my trip to Chile in the beginning of the year and in
the 1/4`s against France I played a small role in beating Mathieu.
Gumy and I are meant to get together in Moscow at the end of October to start
practising and in early November we will fly to Valencia and possibly to South
America to get properly ready for the new challenge in 2008.
I can assure you all my friends and supporters that I still have in me the
desire to try and make it again to the top of this game and I hope that all of
you guys will be there to support me in my efforts to this.
I will definitely miss you all in the next few weeks and I ask you to support
and cross your fingers for the success of my fellow Russians in the team in
the Davis Cup semi final.
I will see you all again real soon.
From me somewhere above the roof of the world.
Peace to you all Marat
Earlier: Our team has gathered in our
supercomfortable base camp Cho Oyu (about 5000 m high). Even Evgeny Semionov
(who had problems with visas), has caught up with us. He has arrived today on
a jeep together with expedition from Latvia. Just today our Sherpas, having
loaded 1800 kg on 30 yaks, have gone to the intermediate camp. In the base
camp I have met the officer of communication, my good friend, Mr. Samdu. We
work with him it last 4 years in the Base camp of Everest. Best regards, Alex
Abramov
CLIMB IN XEGAR:
September, 17th, we have moved through the pass of Lalung La (5100 meters
high) on which all have felt attributes of mountain illness. Our command has
gone down in very exotic small town Old Tingri (4200м). Directly in the street
here mutton corps are dried and cows eat the rests of cardboard boxes. After
dinner, we have gone in the city of Xegar (4200м) where have spent the night.
Today under our plan of acclimatization, we have made an ascent on a mount
near Xegar (4700м) - practically as high as Mont Blanc. Near the top we should
climb loose rocks, unpleasant moment that ends well.
Marat was strong and climbed very well, he feels very good. We all are very
friendly with him, he is perfectly entered in our team. The weather in Tibet
is warm, but unstable. The beginning of thunder-storm has banished us from the
top. September, 20 we leave for the base camp Cho Oyu, which must be ready.
Our Sherpas are waiting for us and have started to prepare the climbing route.
Unfortunately in a part from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp there will be no
internet or telephone connection. Best regards, Alex Abramov
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RECEPTION In the RUSSIAN
EMBASSY...
Before departure in Tibet our expedition has visited the Russian Embassy
in Nepal. We were invited in Apartments of the Ambassador of Russia in
Nepal Andrey Trofimov. An interesting conversation was held. Valery
Babanov and Sergey Kofanov also were present at the meeting. In few days
they will start for a new route on the North Face of Jannu.
September, 16.
Today at night, the team has moved from Zhangmu to a small town of Nialam
(3600м), situated in gorge among high mountains. The way passes by a bad
road heavy loaded by lorries. Now the road is under repair for Olympiad.
After breakfast we have gone on an acclimatization climb on the nearest
summit (under the name Murat) 4100 м high.
The strong wind blew all the way up and at the top the rain has started.
Having gone down to Nialam, all members of team have intimately
congratulated Marat. It was the first climbed summit in his life. Tomorrow
we will go to Shigar, which is located at height 4200 meters.
Today in the morning we
have said goodbye to ours Sherpas which have gone by two lorries forward
to establish Base camp at height 5100м. Best regards from Nialam. Alex
Abramov
September 11, main part of members “7Summits Club – Alpindustria”
expedition came to Nepal. This team will climb under the leadership of
Alexander Abramov. The aim is to climb the sixth highest mountain in the
world by classic route from Tibet side.
In expedition take part Russian Tennis star Marat Safin.
Expedition members:
Alex Abramov – guide and leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest
Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)
Dmitry Moskalev – co-leader (5 Himalayan expeditions, Everest and
Xixapangma Summiteer)
Alexander Chesnokov – co-leader assistant
Yury Beloivan
Konstantin Zhelezov
Igor Kosarev
Evgeny Semenov
Marat Safin – Russian Tennis Star
For Marat Safin this is the 1st mountain in his life.
Hopefully to his many victories in tennis Marat will add one more victory
on the 6th highest mountain in the world.
Photo Left to right
Yuri Beloivan – expedition member
Alex Abramov – expedition leader
Ludmila Korobeshko – mountain guide, Russian female climbing star, 1st
female climber in Moscow and 3rd Russian female climber on top of Everest
Marat Safin – expedition member, Russian Tennis Star
During buying equipment for Cho-Oyu in “Alpindustria” shop in Moscow
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Earlier:
START OF CHO-OYU EXPEDITION
7th September “Seven
Summits Club – Alpindustria” Cho-Oyu expedition started. Alexander Abramov has
taken off for Katmandu for preparation of expedition. 11th September, 8 other
participants of trip should join him. In total it will be 7 climbers from
Moscow and one of Sakhalin in a command. The aim is to climb the sixth highest
mountain in the world by the classic route from Tibet side.
Expedition
members:
Alex
Abramov – guide and
leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)
Dmitry
Moskalev – co-leader (5
Himalayan expeditions, Everest and Xixapangma Summiteer)
Alexander
Chesnokov – co-leader
assistant
Yury
Beloivan
Konstantin
Zhelezov
Igor
Kosarev
Evgeny
Semenov
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See more here. |
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