Jan Krabec, Milan Wlasak, and Pavel Krupicka take on Manaslu in winter. With
little 8000 meter experience, 3 Czechs climbers take on Manaslu in Winter...
Little is known if they plan to use Sherpas and or oxygen yet... Stay Tuned...
Located forty miles east of
Annapurna, Manaslu (also called Kutang), the eighth highest mountain in the
world, dominates the Gurkha massif. The name Manaslu is derived from the
Sanskrit word Manasa meaning "Mountain of the Spirit".
After several failed attempts
a Japanese party finally made the first ascent of Manaslu, (26758 ft/8163
meters) in 1956; it wasn't climbed again until 1971. In 1997 Charlie Mace
made the first American ascent and since that time only four other Americans
had stood on Manaslu's summit until the succesful
2002 American expedition. The route is of moderate technical difficulty,
but the true difficulty will be the grueling nature of this remote peak.
After an arduous trek to base camp the climber will be faced with a circuitous
route up a mountain infamous for heavy snow accumulation. Avalanches and
sheer exhaustion will be their major obstacles.
History of climbing Manaslu
1950: H.W. Tilman, made his
famous reconnaissance of Manaslu after his unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna
4. He stated he believed there was a potential route to the of Summit of
Manaslu via the northeast.
1952: A Japanese
reconnaissance party reached 5275 meter on the east side of the mountain.
1953: The first attempt to
Summit Manaslu was made by a Japanese team of 15 climbers led by Yukio Mita
via the Northeast face. K. Kato, J. Yamada and S Ishizaka made a summit push
reaching 7750 meter before turning back.
1954: Yaichi Hotta planned to
lead a 14 member Japanese team on the Second Summit attempt of Manaslu, again
via the Northeast. But villagers in the area refused to let them enter the
area, therefore no attempt was made.
1956: A Japanese team led by
Yuko Maki made the first ascent of Manaslu via the North. This 12 member team
established camp 6 at 7800 meter and on May 9th. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen
Norbu Sherpa aka Galalzen Norbu reached the Summit. On May 11th, Kiichiro Kato
and Minoru Higeta reached the Summit via the same route.
1971: Kazuharu Kohara and
Motoki, part of a 11 man team from Japan, reached the Summit on May 17th via
the NW spur. The Japanese had all the ascents of Manaslu at this point !
1971: Kim Ho-Sup led a Korean
expedition to Manaslu to attempt via the Northeast. Kim Ki-Sup died when he
fell on May 4th, 1971.
1972: The Austrian expedition
led by Wolfgang Nairz made the first ascent via the SW face. On April 25th,
Reinhold Messner, reached the Summit, Franc Jaeger and Andy Schrick
disappeared on the Summit Plateau on the same day in a horrible storm.
1972: The Koreans returned
with a 12 members expedition led by Kim Jung-Sup via the Northeast Face route.
On April 10th 1972, an avalanche killed 16 climbers including 10 Sherpas
climbers, the Korean expedition leader and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan.
1973: Gerhard Schmatz led a
West German expedition to Manaslu. Gerhard, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber
reached the summit via the Northeast Face on April 22nd. In 1973, Jaume Garcia
Orts led a Spanish Expedition in Autumn that was not successful reaching only
1974: The Japanese were back
with a women team led by Kyoko Sato attempting via the East ridge. Unable to
summit via the East ridge, Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida Mieko Mori and Jambu
Sherpa reached the Summit on May 4th via the Northeast route. These were the
first women to Summit Manaslu. Sadly, Sadako Suzuki fell and died on the 5th
of May between camp 4 and 5.
1975: Jaume Garcia Orts was
back with his 12 memebr Spanish Expedition and had two climbers and a Sherpa
reach the Summit via the Northeast Face route on April 26th. Gerald Garcia,
Jeronimo Lopez and Sonam Sherpa.
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