Hello EverestNews.com, We are safely back, despite the fact we did
not make it to the very top ( we ended up at 7500m), it was one of the best
Dodo and myself are heading back to Annapurna as early as mid March 09, we
will be climbing from the south, alpine style of course. Martin
Update: Summary Oct 4 - 11 At the start...
Three and half days Martin, Miska, Dodo and porters marched in wet jungle. "It
looks like nobody has been here since 1950", Martin wrote. Oct 8 they reached
3900m, the start of the way, and built base camp. Puja ceremony, trip to
French BC, Chess Grand Prix Annapurna, lasting bad weather. Next days they
planned climbing strategy, checked the icefall terrain and spent a night under
Oct 12 - Sunday in BC
Martin wrote: "Walking down the icefall is much easier then up. Temba's Sunday
lunch was great. Now coffee and sunbath. Tomorrow rest day."
Oct 14 - C1: Early morning they went up, reached C1 at 5200m.
"Oxygen Spa! Itīs hot! Dhaula, Fang and Nilgiri protect us against the wind".
Oct 15 - C2: Twelve hours of hard work to 6000m, C2 built late
evening. Very difficult climbing, fixing impossible, "we survived a few serac
Oct 16 - 300m higher: 4 p.m. they reached 6300. Like yesterday, very
difficult. Strong wind is seen on the ridge, but they are still in protected
area. "Some serac barriers climbed, some ahead of us..."
Editorial Note: It appears the Swiss team with Jean
Troillet are headed home without the summit...
Update: Petr Masek, Dodo Kopold and Martin Minarik met in Jomosom on
Saturday morning, each of us with basic aklimatization already done. We are
leaving and start hiking to base camp. We plan to start climbing around
Introduction of the expedition: Members : Dodo Kopold ( Slovak), Petr Masek
and Martin Minarik ( Czechs)
Goal : alpine or light style Nortwest Face of Annapurna (most likely
Term : October 08
I leave with small group of trekkers on September 21 and Dodo and Petr will
join us several days later. Initial aclimatization around Tilicho Lake, then
off to Annapurna base camp for the climb.
Annapurna aka Morshiadi (
8091 meters high; 26545 feet) is located on the Annapurna massif in
North-central Nepal. Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain in the world, was
first climbed in 1950 by the French expedition Maurice Herzog and Louis
Lachenal on June 3rd, 1950. The first 8000 meter peak climbed, today it is
arguably the most feared. Annapurna is translated " Goddess of the Harvests"
or "the Provider".
The major peaks
on the Annapurna range is Annapurna I (8091 meters high), Annapurna II (7937
meters), Annapurna III (7555 meters), Annapurna IV (7525 meters), Gangapurna
(7455 meters) and Annapurna South (7219 meters).
Annapurna was the first
8000-meter peak ever climbed. The 1950 first ascent via the North Face was
immortalized in the great Maurice Herzog's book "Annapurna". 20 years more it
took for another team to succeed on the mountain. Chris Bonington's team 1970
ascent of the South Face of Annapurna was a landmark in the history of
mountaineering. Two American women, Irene Miller and Vira Komarkova, have
reached the summit via the North Face in October of 1978, making the first
ascent by Americans! In May of 1988, American Steve Boyer, working with a
large French expedition, reached the summit, repeating the Bonington route on
the South Face with a large French expedition.