Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Tunc and Dawa summits Mt. Baruntse alpine style, one push from the base camp!


This autumn season, i was able to climb Mt. Baruntse, a 7244 m. (or maybe 7129 m, as in official documents!), a snow and ice summit near Makalu and Everest, in alpine style, one push from the base camp! I did this climb in a 2-men team with Dawa Sherpa, a very strong 8 time Everest summiter and a record holder of north to south Mt. Everest crossing in 20 hours in 2006!

After a worrying waiting out period of 2 days in Katmandu airport to fly to Lukla (because of thick fog- and with a really nasty air crash in Lukla involving 18 tourists killed!), at last we were able to take a helicopter ride by 10th October. Following some organization, we set off from the Khumbu town of Lukla (2800 m) with our 25 porters by 12th October. Following the same magnificent trail to Mera Peak in Hingku valley (Chutanga-3400 m, Chettra-La pass 4500 m, Chettra- wa, 4100 m, Kothey 3500 m. Tagnag 4300 m, Mera -La pass 5400 m), we first climbed the popular Mera peak (6440 m) by its crowded north glacier route, a walk-up really, for acclimatisation purposes in 19th October. The ascent took us 5 hours from Mera-La pass. The same day we descended to Hongku valley to Kongme Dingma camp (4700 m) to rest. Continuing up the Tibet-like Hongku valley to Seto Pokari camp (5050 m), we arrived at the Baruntse base camp by 22nd October in very good and finely cold, settled weather. The base camp was in a lovely spot, by a glacier lake and with a full Himalayan view, at an altitude of 5450 m.
Following a full day of rest and organization, finally we climbed up to the West col of Baruntse (fixed lines, 45-50 degrees hard snow) and made our high camp in 6100 metres in the great glacier plateau of Baruntse, with a full view of Makalu. By the early hours of 25th October, Dawa and I moved up to the south west ridge of Baruntse, which is a snow and ice route. The route is not decidedly difficult, interspersed with steep steps and with only technical difficulties at around 6750 m-7000 m., necessitating a careful and precise climb.. Crossing sharp and steep summit ridges, we arrived at the summit before midday (around 11 am), with severe wind and cold as below 25 degrees C, with a majestic Himalayan view of Everest, Lhotse, Kang, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Shisha! Descending the route, we packed up our high camp and were at the base camp before sunset same day- completing the full ascent in less than 2 days from base camp to base camp, thus making a nice alpine style climb, which i enjoyed fully. So we closed our circuit by crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass (5840 m) back to Khumbu valley, to Dingboche, good old Namche and Phakding and were back in Lukla by the 3rd of November, only to wait for the fog to lift off to fly to Katmandu, with hordes of people waiting anxiously to fly! Finally, by 6th November, we are safe and well in Katmandu , already celebrated the expedition in Rum Doodle! Great Thanks to my friend Dawa Sherpa and all our trek crew! Tunc Findik

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 







 

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



  



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it