Nanga Parbat Winter History: The first winter attempt on Nanga Parbat was made
by "First Anglo Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition led by John Tinker" in
1988/99. There were 3 English Climber and 7 Polish Climber in the team. But
due to bad conditions on the mountain forced them to re-route from SE to the
Rupal Flank. Still they could not climb over 6800m. The Second expedition led
by Berbeka from 25th November 1990 to 5 Feb., 1991 Shahzada Hussain was the
LO. They also tried Messner Route reaching around 6800m. After this four more
expedition tried there luck but failed. In 2006/2007 We (Jasmine Tours) has
honour to organize Krzysztof Wielicki International Winter Nanga Parbat
Expedition Shell Route with a strong team of Jan Szulc, Artur Hajzer,
Krzysztof Tarasewicz, Dariusz Zaluski. This team also fail due to strong winds
and heavy snow on the mountain.
The highest point one reach on Nanga Parbat in winter is 7800m by Mr.
Zbigniew Trzmiel, he got very serious frost bite. Including Polish Winter
Nanga Parbat Diamir Face Expedition 2008/2009 led by Jacek Teler with his
friend Jaroslaw Zurawski (this expedition also organized by Jasmine Tours),
There has been total 10 attempt on Nanga Parbat in Winter none of them
Brief Note: Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008/2009 led by Jacek
Jacek Teler with his friend arrive on 11 December in Islamabad and the
same day we have briefing with Alpine Club. The next day on 12 December we
travel together on KKH and reach Chilas in the evening. 12 Dec and 13
December we spent the night in Chilas for ground arrangment. 14 December we
reach Sehr after two hours of driving to Hilala and 4 hours of walking.
After managing porters for the expedition to base camp, I return from Sehr
to Gilgit and then to Skardu before flying to Islamabad. There were lots of
snow this year on the approach march to base camp. However expedition manage
to reach little closer to summer base camp. The Expedition establish ABC and
C1 in a very hard condition. Jaroslaw Maciej Zurawski decided to gave up
after viewing the bad condition between C1 and C2. The expedition reach
around 6300m . Jacek can not go solo in winter therefore he also decided to
finish the expedition and return to Islamabad and fly back home. With thanks
the accurate weather updates were provided by Pakistan Met Office -
Asghar Ali Porik M/s JASMINE TOURS - PAKISTAN
Earlier: The Nanga Parbat Diamir Face, led by Jacek Teler is organized by Jasmine
Tours (Asghar Ali Porik). This is a two person team and they plan to arrive on
11 of December.
The other expedition is for Broad Peak and its is organized by Adventure
Tours Pakistan. Led by Artur Hajzer
with Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie.
More much in the coming days...
The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri.
The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft.
It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at
the top. Broad
Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers
above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum
range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier
between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first
climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt
Diemberger and Herman Buhl.
Himalayas are a great mountain range. The
central Himalayan mountains are situated in
Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the
borders of Bhutan and Sikkim. The Nanga
Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of
the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks
just springing up from nothing, and is
surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga
Parbat or "Nanga Parvata" means the
naked mountain. Its original and appropriate
name, however, is Diamir
the king of the mountains.
Parbat (main peak) has a height of 8126 meters/26,660
ft. It has three vast faces. The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face
is dominated by the north and south silver crags and
silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the
beginning. It converts itself into ice fields around
Nanga Parbat peak. The Rupal face is the highest
precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living
legend in mountaineering from Italy, says that
"every one who has ever stood at the foot of this
face (4500 meters) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it
or flown over it, could not help but have been amazed
by its sheer size; it has become known as the highest
rock and ice wall in the world!".
Parbat has always been associated with tragedies
and tribulations until it was climbed in 1953. A
lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga
Parbat since 1895. Even in recent years it has
claimed a heavy toll of human lives of
mountaineers, in search of adventure and thrill.
Its victims, have included those in pursuit of
new and absolutely un-climbed routes leading to
was in 1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga
Parbat dammed the Indus river. This created a huge
lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake
down-stream. The flood of water that was released when
the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft in the river's 3
level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It
was also in the middle of the nineteenth century that
similar catastrophes were later caused by the damming
of Hunza and Shyok rivers.
Nanga Parbat peak was discovered in the
nineteenth century by Europeans. The
Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich
(Germany) came in 1854 to Himalayas and drew a
panoramic view which is the first known picture
of Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was
murdered in Kashgar. The curse of Nanga Parbat
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