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  Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008/2009 led by Jacek Teler


Nanga Parbat Winter History: The first winter attempt on Nanga Parbat was made by "First Anglo Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition led by John Tinker" in 1988/99. There were 3 English Climber and 7 Polish Climber in the team. But due to bad conditions on the mountain forced them to re-route from SE to the Rupal Flank. Still they could not climb over 6800m. The Second expedition led by Berbeka from 25th November 1990 to 5 Feb., 1991 Shahzada Hussain was the LO. They also tried Messner Route reaching around 6800m. After this four more expedition tried there luck but failed. In 2006/2007 We (Jasmine Tours) has honour to organize Krzysztof Wielicki International Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition Shell Route with a strong team of Jan Szulc, Artur Hajzer, Krzysztof Tarasewicz, Dariusz Zaluski. This team also fail due to strong winds and heavy snow on the mountain.

The highest point one reach on Nanga Parbat in winter is 7800m by Mr. Zbigniew Trzmiel, he got very serious frost bite. Including Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Diamir Face Expedition 2008/2009 led by Jacek Teler with his friend Jaroslaw Zurawski (this expedition also organized by Jasmine Tours),

There has been total 10 attempt on Nanga Parbat in Winter none of them successes.

Brief Note: Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008/2009 led by Jacek Teler.

Jacek Teler with his friend arrive on 11 December in Islamabad and the same day we have briefing with Alpine Club. The next day on 12 December we travel together on KKH and reach Chilas in the evening. 12 Dec and 13 December we spent the night in Chilas for ground arrangment. 14 December we reach Sehr after two hours of driving to Hilala and 4 hours of walking. After managing porters for the expedition to base camp, I return from Sehr to Gilgit and then to Skardu before flying to Islamabad. There were lots of snow this year on the approach march to base camp. However expedition manage to reach little closer to summer base camp. The Expedition establish ABC and C1 in a very hard condition. Jaroslaw Maciej Zurawski decided to gave up after viewing the bad condition between C1 and C2. The expedition reach around 6300m . Jacek can not go solo in winter therefore he also decided to finish the expedition and return to Islamabad and fly back home. With thanks the accurate weather updates were provided by Pakistan Met Office - Islamabad

Asghar Ali Porik M/s JASMINE TOURS - PAKISTAN

website: www.jasminetours.com

Earlier: The Nanga Parbat Diamir Face, led by Jacek Teler is organized by Jasmine Tours (Asghar Ali Porik). This is a two person team and they plan to arrive on 11 of December.

The other expedition is for Broad Peak and its is organized by Adventure Tours Pakistan. Led by Artur Hajzer with Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie.

More much in the coming days...

The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.

The Himalayas are a great mountain range. The central Himalayan mountains are situated in Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the borders of Bhutan and Sikkim. The Nanga Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks just springing up from nothing, and is surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga Parbat or "Nanga Parvata" means the naked mountain. Its original and appropriate name, however, is Diamir the king of the mountains.

Nanga Parbat (main peak) has a height of 8126 meters/26,660 ft. It has three vast faces. The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face is dominated by the north and south silver crags and silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the beginning. It converts itself into ice fields around Nanga Parbat peak. The Rupal face is the highest precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living legend in mountaineering from Italy, says that "every one who has ever stood at the foot of this face (4500 meters) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it or flown over it, could not help but have been amazed by its sheer size; it has become known as the highest rock and ice wall in the world!".

Nanga Parbat has always been associated with tragedies and tribulations until it was climbed in 1953. A lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga Parbat since 1895. Even in recent years it has claimed a heavy toll of human lives of mountaineers, in search of adventure and thrill. Its victims, have included those in pursuit of new and absolutely un-climbed routes leading to its summit.

It was in 1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga Parbat dammed the Indus river. This created a huge lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake down-stream. The flood of water that was released when the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft in the river's 3 level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It was also in the middle of the nineteenth century that similar catastrophes were later caused by the damming of Hunza and Shyok rivers.

The Nanga Parbat peak was discovered in the nineteenth century by Europeans. The Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich (Germany) came in 1854 to Himalayas and drew a panoramic view which is the first known picture of Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was murdered in Kashgar. The curse of Nanga Parbat had begun.

 

 

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