mountains on the planet, with more that 20 summits of 8,000 meters. Manaslu
is the eighth elevation in this cast of 14 mountains that in his day R.
Messner managed to climb for the first time with no oxygen and that today is a
challenge for many climbers. The female Andalucian team has achieved the
seventh eight-thousand for Andalucia. A historical success for the Andalucian
sport and mountain climbing.
On May 19 at
9:25 hours, Tamara and Inma reached the summit of Manaslu of 8,163 meters.
The Andalucians ended with success a work that began two years ago. The two
climbers pushed their teamwork to the limits of mountain climbing, to reach
the highest point of the mountain. The “Andalucia 2009 Women’s Expedition”
has gone beyond the current rancid mountain climbing and proved that an 8,000
can be climbed with work, will and trust in the possibilities of a group,
having in consideration and respect the activities of other groups on the
mountain. The Andalucians came as “favorites” to BC and finished with the
most successful attempt of the season on Manaslu.
On the 15th
the Andalucians left again from BC, to reach C3 on the 16th,
waiting for the announced window of good weather. The panorama they found in
the high altitude camps was disappointing. Just like in C1, all the camps
were buried and destroyed by the snowfalls. And as in previous attempts, the
strong wind of the high altitude forced them to decide to stay one more day at
C3, to continue climbing on the 17th, a day in which the conditions
were adequate to attempt the most vertical part of the route and reach C4.
location of C4, the Sherpas from the Andalucian team left two depots with
materials, but when the climbers got there on the 18th they could
not locate one of them, which seriously complicated the situation, because one
of the tents and half of the food and gas were gone and they felt obligated to
resolve the situation with no room for possible errors.
Day 19, 1
without wind, the Andalucian climbers started their march, still in the dark
and with the advantage of having a Sherpa with them, who knew the route, and
they went ahead of the summit attempt. They knew that they would not find
fixed ropes and that until daybreak they would the climb would be complicated,
a lot of snow and the risk that would carry would be the main topic of the
climb. Around 2 hours, Lina decides to quit and although their partners try
to convince her and before her decision could hurt the other members of the
group, the climber goes back to C4. The Andalucians continued ahead of the
ascent over the glaciers until sunrise, when the Japanese team relieved them.
One of the Sherpas suffered a fall of more than 60 meters, which luckily did
not have consequences, but alerted everybody with the seriousness of the
route. 200 meters away from the summit Tamara and her Sherpa Keshap took the
initiative again and reached the summit of Manaslu at 9:25h in a day of
radiant sun. A while later, Inma and her Sherpa Shevi, and the expedition
cameraman Lolo made it there too.
When they left
Andalucia a journalist wrote a headline that said LADIES POKER for the
conquest of Manaslu: Gentlemen… let me raise the bet. MORE THAN A LADIES
POKER. What our female climbers made on this mountain will remain, especially
for them (remember that the media coverage has been ludicrous, as it has
always been for women’s sports), as a proof of their effort.
What I have
helped for this project and the crumbs of success of my part, I want to share
with those who love me so much from years ago and who still hit me hard but
help little, you know you’ll benefit from this one, but since you are few I
want to dedicate the little while I was up there, with the permission of
Marina, Alaba and Salvi, to my father who died, while I attempted to reach the
dream of the summit of K2 and to my friend Manuel Salazar, they know we were
very close a few hours ago.
these women for letting me live everything I lived.
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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